cfair

Just fitted a new steering coupler (aka rag joint) to my 1966 Starfire and am now second-guessing myself.

My ragjoint-to-steering box coupling flange was missing about half its splines from wear or because someone before me ground them down. Replacement was a very good idea. I have no idea how long it’s been bad, but glad to replace.

My local Napa didn’t have the Olds part in stock. Surprise. So used this Chevy part which is slightly heavier duty:




It’s listed as the coupler for Chevy GMC Pickup SUV, GMT400, Camaro, S10, Firebird 3/4” 26 spline input 2-3/4” O.D. I bought it as Dorman part 630-1446

The differences between this later Chevy part and the Olds original are that the locating pins are both large, not big & little like Olds used in 1966.

But - critically (maybe) it used on 5/16’s bolt like Olds did, but on the other side I drilled out the flange hole to fit a 7/16’s” bolt.

Did I just create a safety hazard? Put another way, do you think I did something dumb drilling a hole that was 19/64” out to 28/64”s?

It all fit together well and it looked like enough meat between the edge of the flange and the hole to me, but I’m not a professional.

The car is steering better than in a long time and I’ve road tested it on the freeway, but I wanted to get your opinions here. No liability for offering your opinions, I’m just polling. I’ll be checking with my local suspension guys too, but what do you guys think?

I have a spare flange I can use if needed, but I’m in my head about the value of a thicker bolt and thicker rubber donut vs. downside of a bigger flange hole.

I may be overthinking it..
Chris

oldcutlass

Will it hurt, probably not. Was it necessary, also probably not. All that bolt does is cinch the clamp, the 5/16 bolt is more than adequate for that.

gs72

It should be fine. The two different size holes are for indexing purposes.

cfair

I had a 2 hour drive this morning to consider the problem & solution. I think you guys are right, drilling out the hole a bit is probably not a problem.

The better way to solve this is to use 2 5/16”’s bolts as Olds intended so it bolts up the column flange as designed, but to use a steel spacer sleeve on the bolt to make up the difference between the smaller Olds bolt and the bigger Chevy hole in the rag joint.

A metal spacer would effectively add stiff surface area in the rubber rag joint while still allowing the factory hole on the column flange. Correct factory holes and slightly stiffening the rubber joint. Win.

I’ll check with my mechanics this week or next on what they think about hogging 1 hole out vs. using a spacer & update from here.

Until then, if you use this Chevy part in an old Olds, keep your smaller bolts, get fresh lock washers and use a spacer. That’s gotta be a better solution than removing metal to “make it work”….

Chris