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I still would remove it all, you may need the springs, etc. And after you start welding/grinding you sure don't want a fire!!! and with seats out there will be more room to crawl around inside.
^^^THIS^^^
Let us know what the roof of the parts car is like once you disassemble everything.
As I noted, I am not worried about damaging the interior parts with dirt or even a little grit but your recommendation to get it all out to avoid a fire is noted and I will do so, just have to find a place to put it all. I hat climbing up in the mezanine area but there is room up there. So until I get both tops completely stripped I won't know which way to go. Man, buying a break and a shrinker and all, I don't have room in the shop... much less the extra cash right now. I was going to drive it up to Jesse's in Oklahoma this summer to swap a 455 for the 350, now......
Horbor Frieght makes a decent shrinker / stretcher set. I have mine set up so I can hold them in my bench vise while using, otherwise they are stored in one of my tool cabinets. Eastwood also makes a small break that mounts in a vise. It's a shame that the 68 roof has that much rust. I still think you have the right idea in completely stripping the roof on both cars to bare metal before making a decision about which one to save. At this point, the 68 roof will need lots of work around the window openings, but it might not need as much work around the panel seams as the roof on your car.
Hate to say it but makes my vista look easy.Another guy to check out on youtube is Fitzee fabrication does alot of rust repair.He even made oai hood scoops out of steel on vista hood.
I watched that video, he has amazing skills with sheet metal and seems to possess a lot of knowledge
Ok folks, I have been thinking about this project lots. Even having dreams of it, some nightmares too. It looks like this project is going to be taking more time and money than initially planned which is ok with me, just have to determine how I am going to go about it and fund it. And let my wife know I need to invest some more money in tools. I have been thinking about a new welder and have spoken to a good freind who does lots of welding, mostly industrial stick welding outdoors but he does have a gas MIG unit but not a TIG (to my knowledge). He is in the process of moving to some property he bought and building his forever homestead on which he plans to make room on 60 acres for himself and adult children/grandchildren so Idon't want to impose upon him too much. He has volunteerd to look into a suitable gas MIG for me but it has been over a week so...I am reaching out to you guys. I remember getting a few recommendations as to brands and models but cant find it so can you guys give me some ideas? I don't know if I will be able to use a TIG effectively because as I understand it wind adversely affects it and I will be working with the shop door open this spring/summer and have a fan on even if the door is closed.
Now out to clean up the interior of the car and start storing some parts.
I'd be reluctant to buy a fancy welder. You already have a Hobart MIG/stick welder don't you? Just piece in small pieces of metal one at a time to rebuild the Visfa roof.
I'd be reluctant to buy a fancy welder. You already have a Hobart MIG/stick welder don't you? Just piece in small pieces of metal one at a time to rebuild the Visfa roof.
If you already have a functional Hobart gas MIG, that’s all you would need to do the job so long as the feed is good, your wand is not kinked and have good nozzle tips. Dial the feed/amperage down and spot the repairs in evenly and allow cooling to prevent warpage. If you’re operating in an open environment you can duct tape a cardboard wind shield around your work area or use a gloved hand to cup around the nozzle to contain the shielding gas. I use a Miller 210 with inert gas, good for sheet metal as well as building heavy stuff.
My MIG is not really a metal inert gas unit, it is a flux core welder. I have learned that sometimes use the term MIG to include these as well (I guess erroneosly). Anyway it is only flux core, not even stick either so I need to replace it and thanks for the recommnedation on technique by cupping the area with cardboard or the hand. Still looking for recommedations on a particular unit or any guidance in general.
Dan,
I use a 115 Volt / 140 Amp Hobart like the one shown below (currently on sale for $628 with free shipping if you have amazon prime). As I said above, you will see a HUGE improvement moving from a flux core welder to a shielded gas MIG. You can get an Argon/ CO2 bottle and fill from ACE, Tractor Supply, and many other hardware stores. Keep in mind you will probably need to purchase the bottle from the gas supplier.
Thanks Tom, have you found that the duty cycle is sufficient for use when working in the shop? How do you use it? Thanks for the suggestion.
I cleaned out the interior, at least the back part. I realized after taking the pictures that I forgot the door cards and arm rests. I haven't removed the windshield yet so haven't removed the front seat and other stuff. In accordance with taking one bite at a time I thought of starting in the back so I might use a welding blanket to partition off the front section while working.
While I had it backed out of the garage to take out the back seat I used the leaf blower to clean it out reall well. Then I realized that the sunlight was really good, almost as good as if it were an overcast but bright day (diffused light, no shadows). So I took a few picturres of the damage.
It is going to be quite a challenge to say the least. If I can get some channel material pre made from the place Joe recommended (Belden Speed) then perhaps it will be a little easier. Who knows?
Dan,
It is a really good all around welder. I use if for everything from 22 ga to 1/4" plate. If I have something that needs to be really strong (welding 4 link brackets to a rear end for example) I use the Hobart to tack everything together and then finish with my brother's 220 volt ESAB which will penetrate much deeper. Some things to keep in mind:
- As stated above you cannot weld to rust so you need to cut/ grind back to clean metal before welding your repair panels in.
- The rust that you can see may be worse under/ behind the metal. Once you get the majority of rust cut out, poke around the "good" metal with a pick to see it there are any thin spots.
- Welding and grinding sparks will etch/ ruin your glass. You should remove the door glass, tailgate glass, and windshield before grinding/ cutting/ welding to avoid damaging any of it.
I have spoken with two people who have experience with body work and have done body work themselves. One is a member of my Wednesday church study group who has a business doing this kind of work and he owns four or five customs, street rods, or muscle cars. The other is Heath aka Funkwagon455 here at Classicoldsmobile, you all know his reputation. After thinking about this project for a day or two (or more) I have decided to drop it and count my wounds as lessons learned. I will probably try to sell both cars as is to someone who has the time to finish it (I am 67 and would be old by the time I could do so) and or the experience to do it right. Since I have never done this it is a steep learning curve and would probably turn out looking bad anyway in the end. As I explained to Heath, I was out of the hobby for a while after my first wife passed and when I finally decided to get back into it my response was a spontaneous one when I saw that yellow Vista sitting in a yard. So anyway this will be the end of this thread probably. Thanks to all for giving me your support, knowledge, and honesty. Maybe you will see a new therad where I announce a new Oldsmobile to you all.
Where did this come from? You won't be able to get any money for the Vista since it's disassembled the way it is. Don't loose heart, just repair the rust one patch at a time.
I agree with Dan's decision. This rot is not trivial, and extends past the sheet metal into the inner pieces. Unless all that interior rust is mitigated it will come back. Cut your losses and move on.
Really sorry to hear that Dan. That is a decent Vista- floors are good. You can do it... But your decision. You know I always wondered if someone could convert a Vista to a flat wagon, using complete roof off a Chevelle, Lemans wagon, etc. I know the Vista is 5" longer than a regular flat top, but that could be addressed?? maybe? I dunno. Go to a place like DVAP and buy a whole roof??? This is a interesting idea! Well I think you already know but you now have a parts car as is. Rethink fixing it!!
Cheers! All patches were made. Not easy to get parts out here in New Zealand.
I already have to do it all over again to my 71 Vista (this one’s my 72). Also, had to do along the bottom of the side windows.
That stainless trim certainly hides the rust well doesn’t it!?
Dan, please let me know if you end up parting the car as I am in need of a front Vista glass!
Cheers! All patches were made. Not easy to get parts out here in New Zealand.
I already have to do it all over again to my 71 Vista (this one’s my 72). Also, had to do along the bottom of the side windows.
That stainless trim certainly hides the rust well doesn’t it!?
Dan, please let me know if you end up parting the car as I am in need of a front Vista glass!
Yes I noticed it was missing, I do have one but not sure if it would survive shipping to N.Z. In my previous post I didn't notice you were so far away, of course you wouldn't be able to take on my project. PM me if you want to persue the glass. Beautiful work, wish I was skilled enough to do that as well.
A week has passed by and I am having serious remorse about my decision, I just can't let it go so... I am going to try to fix it. I may post some progress in the future but I fear some of my methods may not meet with approval and as I can take the heat I dislike contention and especially if I have caused it by my actions. Not going to make any excuses, explanations, or arguments concerning it but I will probably not be doing a lot of welding to repair it. I suck at welding...
I agree. It's better to have it all together and just bondoed or whatever you have planned than leaving it like that. It is worthless as a complete car like that. Very unlikely anyone would buy it. If you cobble it up and get it done it has a good chance of lasting as long as you can keep it out of the rain and high humidity for many years. Look at all the cars that were painted 20-40 years ago and look great until the new owner decides to restore them. Then they find bondo and many quick repairs that were considered just fine for a production body shop repair when car was 5-10 years old. Good decision. Just remember it is your car and do as you want with it.
March 24th, 2023, 07:02 AM
