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Old February 15th, 2024, 03:50 PM
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Car trailers

Was wondering the consensus on car trailers ? What are guys using ? I’ve heard the steel deck car trailers are slippery , not crazy about the equipment trailers , tilt trailers are expensive . I have a small tractor around 3500 pounds I would haul occasionally . And a car or two if needed. Most cars are in the 4000 pound class , would dual 3500 lb axels trailer do the job ?
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Old February 15th, 2024, 04:12 PM
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Open or enclosed?. Aluminum open trailers cut weight but are more expensive. I've got an older 16ft open trailer with 2 3500 leaf spring axles, and a 20ft enclosed with 2 5200 pound torsion axles. It's a matter of need and taste I guess.
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Old February 15th, 2024, 04:42 PM
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I had but sold a couple years ago, a alum, tilt bed, 4 wheel brakes, removable fenders, for under 7K. It was a H&H, great trailer for the price. I had a steel one before, I woulds spend the little more to get a Alum one.
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Old February 15th, 2024, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueCalais79
Open or enclosed?. Aluminum open trailers cut weight but are more expensive. I've got an older 16ft open trailer with 2 3500 leaf spring axles, and a 20ft enclosed with 2 5200 pound torsion axles. It's a matter of need and taste I guess.
open would be all I need
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Old February 15th, 2024, 04:44 PM
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I've been shopping for a 24' enclosed. My thinking is winter storage as well.
Most I have seen are 10k lb rated.
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Old February 15th, 2024, 05:38 PM
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I like the idea of an enclosed 24' aluminum for several reasons.

Yes winter storage solutions to free up the shop with clutter for a few months with the option to utilize it as a hauler, weekend get away/ off the ground tenting it camper. And I think the most appealing will be the realized re-sale value of a well kept same for the next person, almost like being able to use that chunk of coin vs sitting on paper in an account.... Look at used ones vs new, steel vs aluminum for a while and get a gauge on the market. I have been on the fence myself for some time. After I get a couple home improvements updated I will start an Aluminum Enclosed Car Hauler Fund I am thinking.
Thanks for the post it helps for me to think along with you all sometimes
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Old February 15th, 2024, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 442Harv
I had but sold a couple years ago, a alum, tilt bed, 4 wheel brakes, removable fenders, for under 7K. It was a H&H, great trailer for the price. I had a steel one before, I woulds spend the little more to get a Alum one.
Curious to know. How was your re-sale compared to purchase price if you don't mind a sharing
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Old February 15th, 2024, 08:15 PM
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I have a 20’ 70CH Big Tex trailer.
Its pretty basic, but it hauls my 3900lb car very well with just a 1500.

Its been to about 15 states, probably about 15,000 miles, and I’ve never needed much more.



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Old February 16th, 2024, 03:12 AM
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I haven't quite got a handle on the weight difference between steel and aluminum frames. One figure I found suggested as little as 300lb. Most go by the GVWR. Price difference seems to be about $10k.
ATC is a relatively new company on the scene. I looked at one, and the interior was chipboard/osb, even the ramp. I didn't care for that, but their access door design is very nice reminiscent of an InTech.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 06:53 AM
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I got almost the same as when I bought it. I think I should of asked for more, as I had lots of calls on it. I had it about 8 years.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Rallye469
I have a 20’ 70CH Big Tex trailer.
Its pretty basic, but it hauls my 3900lb car very well with just a 1500.

Its been to about 15 states, probably about 15,000 miles, and I’ve never needed much more.


Does that use a 7-way trailer brake harness? Really nice and basic.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 07:07 AM
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My 16 ft open is about 2000 pounds and if it were alum it would be about 1500 so Fleming442 you are pretty much spot on regarding the weight difference.

Also, you have a great idea with using the trailer as extra storage for a car, but here's something to consider. I just stored my 96 Cutlass all winter in my trailer. To take the weight off the axles and tires I jacked/leveled the corners with 7500 lb scissor jacks (also, these jacks are great to take along if you get a flat, you can jack the trailer up WITH the car in the trailer), and tire saver ramps for each of the 4 wheels. This is essentially the same thing RV'ers do for their long term storage.

I bought my 20 ft enclosed trailer back during COVID when prices were deflated a bit, and since we were to use this trailer for our move to SC from CT, I had alot of extras installed (one piece roof, thicker sidewalls, semi screwless exterior panels, torsion axles) as we knew we would be doing alot of deadheading back to CT and I didn't want the thing shaking itself to pieces. The torsion axles were ordered mostly due to a special they were having at the time. But I wanted these anyway since I was not into watching an empty trailer bouncing up and down like a basketball all the way from SC to CT if it had leafsprings.

I got the Trailer for $8,800, but this was largely due to be being able to pick it up from where it was made in Douglas, GA. This same trailer probably would have cost more than double that in CT. I do believe we could still sell it for more than that now still.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
Was wondering the consensus on car trailers ? What are guys using ?
I have a 24 foot open trailer with a wooden deck made by Legend. Bought it new in May of last year for about $12,000. It easily carries my nearly 5,000 lb Toronado.







The trailer's VIN sticker.



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Old February 16th, 2024, 10:51 AM
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Nice, your 5200 lb axles make the grade for what you are hauling.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 02:21 PM
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My 06
20ft Rice trailer has been pretty good to me. It’s a 10k load rating, the heaviest vehicle I have had on it was a 3500 Ram 4x4 with a snow plow.

I bolted a small diamond plated aluminum truck tool box to the front of the trailer. It gives me a locking storage compartment for the tie downs, basic tools, etc, and has the added benefit of protecting the front of the car from debris thrown off the tires of the tow vehicle. I also added a cheap harbor freight winch and some additional lighting.

A few years ago I lengthened the loading ramps to reduce the approach angle. With the short ramps, occasionally the headers would drag the exhaust. This past summer I replaced all the brakes.

My biggest complaint is the cheap wiring and tires most trailers come with. A few years ago I replaced all the lighting and wiring. I was amazed at how many stupid scotch-lock and butt connectors were in this trailer. I bought it new, so the manufacturer used them. The tires didn’t last very long.

My advice: buy a little more trailer than you think you need.

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Old February 16th, 2024, 02:30 PM
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My property cannot handle a trailer with my driveway approach. It's too tight a curve and it will bottom out due to angles. I guess I need a better driveway.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 04:34 PM
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Not sure what I would do without a trailer. I’ve had it 5 years and have had 8 different cars and 2 different frames on it.
Plus it helped me move 3 years ago.
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Old February 16th, 2024, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Koda
My property cannot handle a trailer with my driveway approach. It's too tight a curve and it will bottom out due to angles. I guess I need a better driveway.
That's why I can't have a 28.
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Old February 17th, 2024, 04:55 AM
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x2 on that advice to get a bit more trailer than you need. My 16 foot open trailer is bare minimum to float my 79 's and my 94's. Sure wish it was an 18 ft but I got this trailer used in 2017 on e bay. It's a 2002 D & D Trailer (Hamilton, NJ), they were a company that made these back then but now they just sell trailers. Man, this thing is built like a tank. It's got a 7500 lb rating.

And the tires? Goodyear Endurance all the way. The chinese tires last just a couple of years, even if you don't use the trailer, what s hit they really are. Safety first.

To Deadeye, I would recommend trying to find a (lightly) used trailer a few years old that was decently maintained, you will save a ton of money that way as opposed to buying new and paying Dealer mark up which is essentially valueless to a buyer. Living in NY you don't really have the luxury of driving to the FL-GA line to pick one up from the trailer capital of the world to save big bucks cutting out the middleman and/or transport charges.

Last edited by BlueCalais79; February 17th, 2024 at 05:01 AM.
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Old February 17th, 2024, 12:26 PM
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Car haulers that are well kept hold their value. I had a 18 ft steel deck Lawrimore car hauler special I bought used and kept it for 7 yrs. Had a winch, aluminum wheels and pulled like a dream. I sold it for $500 less than I bought it for. All I did was addd new tires once. Unless you really want a new one find a well taken care of used. Steel decks are fine and mine never felt slippery. If your hauling a tractor look of the structure under the deck and be sure the spacing and support size will be ok with a heavy point load of a tractor tire or implement. Wood decks are more forgiving for that kind of stuff. Also equipment trailers tend to be higher and the ramp angle is steeper so loading a low car may be a problem with a lot of wood ramp extensions necessary.

I wanted an enclosed so I bought an aluminum 24 ft EZ hauler all aluminum with finished walls, deck, interior lights etc. Very similar to ATC and Intech at a much lower price point. I bought new as all the used ATC and Intechs were as much $ as this EZ hauler was new. Open trailers are convenient to load a car on, but I got the big side escape door on the enclosed so it’s really easy to load a vehicle. It was not much more $ than some of the steel enclosed and weighs 1700 lbs less. I pull with a F250 diesel so trailer weight was not the big deal, but the less the trailer weighs the more payload you can carry. I don’t need to store a car in the enclosed just wanted something to protect the car and haul more stuff in.




Last edited by Ap6954; February 17th, 2024 at 12:41 PM.
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Old February 17th, 2024, 12:46 PM
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I've had this 10,000 lb Hudson equipment trailer for 25 years now. It's finally about time to replace the pressure treated 2x6 deck. I paid $1950 for it brand new at the time.





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Old February 17th, 2024, 03:09 PM
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Steel decks aren’t as slippery as people make them out to be. The only time I have every worried about it is when I tried to load the car with the drag radials on, after driving thru wet grass. Another reason I lengthen the ramps, it takes much less throttle to move the car.

As for tires, definitely DONT cheap out.

This tire was a couple years old, and the trailer is stored in a shady spot with the tires covered. 2 out of the 4 tires failed (all in dramatic fashion!) within 3 months of this failure. And these were 10 ply Carlisle tires!
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Old February 17th, 2024, 03:24 PM
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I'll be honest, wet wood is just as slippery as wet steel. As for tires, my trailer takes the 14.5" LPT tires. I've used Carlisle, as well as other brands (all Chinesium) and they are all crap. Doesn't seem to matter how much I pay, either. The latest ones are only a couple or three years old and they all have cracks.
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Old February 17th, 2024, 08:49 PM
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I have a 20' (plus 2' V) Lighting all aluminum enclosed with 5200# axels. They will build it anyway you want. Absolutely love it! I think it weights 2500 pounds empty.

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Old April 26th, 2024, 03:32 AM
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Sorry no pictures, however I have a 8.5' x 24' enclosed trailer that I ordered in 2014. If you are shopping for a trailer, spend the extra money for the heavier 5200 lbs axles. The extra safety factor is worth the small investment. The other thing that you should consider is the type of trailer hitch that you plan on using. I use a Equalizer Hitch for the control and safety aspects for towing long distance. Having said all of this, if or when I replace the trailer I will go for the Aluminum Trailer for the additional ease of towing. At the time of my purchase the Aluminum Trailer was slightly more than double the cost.
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Old April 26th, 2024, 07:37 AM
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I've had this cheap, 20' trailer for 15 years (it was at least 5 years old when I got it). It's got a diamond plate deck, it's light, and it tows effortlessly. I use it for everything from moving furniture to moving cars. My friends use it almost as much as I do. It has ramps which slide out the back and with the beavertail rear deck, you can load just about any car, regardless of ground clearance. It only has 3500 lb axles but it's all I need.

I just replaced the tires for the first time. I would expect the new tires won't last half as long as the old ones





Last edited by allyolds68; April 26th, 2024 at 07:44 AM.
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Old April 26th, 2024, 07:48 AM
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Mike, how does it do on a dip, will the back bottom out?
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Old April 26th, 2024, 09:00 AM
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On the trailer subject, I will put this question out there about tires. Use equipment tires or car tires? In my opinion (worth nothing) I think equipment tires are rated for heavy loads a slower speeds for shorter distances. I don't think they are designed for long distances at today's highway speeds of 75-80 mph. I think in that case, a good grade of automotive tires are better. Opinions please.
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Old April 26th, 2024, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Koda
Mike, how does it do on a dip, will the back bottom out?
never a problem on the roads. My driveway is up a pretty steep hill and it drags at the bottom if I don’t hit it just right. I don’t have a drop hitch on my truck. That would help a lot.
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Old April 26th, 2024, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by allyolds68
never a problem on the roads. My driveway is up a pretty steep hill and it drags at the bottom if I don’t hit it just right. I don’t have a drop hitch on my truck. That would help a lot.
Thanks, I have a bad driveway dip then hill. I need to redo my approach before I buy a trailer.
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Old April 26th, 2024, 12:07 PM
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Lots of people in the Airstream community, and probably others, use light truck tires because trailer tires are hit or miss with quality. Usually miss. They give the coach a nice ride, and wear well over many miles. The problem is trailer tires are constructed differently, and they have a stiff sidewall for when you're backing up or in tight spaces and the tires scrub and bind. Car tires or light truck tires will flex an awful lot and risk breaking the bead.

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Old April 26th, 2024, 06:31 PM
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Only way to fly...all aluminum by ATC, 3400lbs and no screws! I can drive my car in, fully open door and step out.



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