When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need a quick education on '70 W-31's, going to go look at one that is for sale but I'm a '70 W-30 owner, and would like to get up to speed as quickly as possible on all the correct part #'s (carb pn, distributor pn, cylinder head ID #, radiator ID, water pump pn, what is the harmonic balancer suppose to look like, radiator ID, water pump pn, etc., etc.) any info that will help determine authenticity would be greatly appreciated.
I guess that I should mention that the car is a 4 spd car.
No open face. W31's use the "traditional"/more common looking cases. 1100879 is the stamping code/number for the W31 alt...it's a 37 amp EXTERNALLY regulated alt and was also used on plenty of non-W Cutlass's and F-85's.
How about you post pictures of what you are looking at. W cars are faked all day every day. It's accepted here to sell fake cars.
You ask for a quick tutorial. So you have not been an Oldsmobile fan before? Why would you target a W-31?
My first car was a '71 Cutlass in High School, circa 1980, I've owned a '68 442, we also are the proud owners of '70 442 W-30 4 spd car (for the past 42 years), so yes I'm fairly knowledgeable, I was looking for info (quickly) specific to a '70 W-31, which I am not versed well in, as far as specific part #'s, etc. go.
Last edited by hotrod442; May 31st, 2023 at 02:43 PM.
Pictures are worth a thousand words. Honestly it's kind of crazy to ask specifics without one single picture.
I don't find it crazy at all, to ask for specific info (part #'s, etc.) without having to show you pictures,......what do pictures of the car have anything to do with looking for part # info?
If you were looking at purchasing a car like this,........ would you broadcast pictures on the internet? Maybe I'm just a little bit weird?
If, and/or when the deal goes thru,..........I'll be happy to post some pictures.
Last edited by hotrod442; May 31st, 2023 at 03:37 PM.
I am not trying to be disrespectful at all. If this is an actual W-31 car both the seller and yourself should be fine showing what it is. The secretive stuff is what makes people wonder if it is real. Obviously you are connecting with the seller. Obviously you are trying to find out all the details you can. That's important. One thing that I always bring up is are there before pictures? I get why you are doing your research as you should. If Any car that someone is selling especially a rare car there must be before pictures. Especially rare cars. It's not like this is a four door Cutlass or whatever. A W-31 was a special car from day one. If it's real. The seller would have pictures.
Last edited by no1oldsfan; May 31st, 2023 at 04:05 PM.
I don't find it crazy at all, to ask for specific info (part #'s, etc.) without having to show you pictures,......what do pictures of the car have anything to do with looking for part # info?
If you were looking at purchasing a car like this,........ would you broadcast pictures on the internet? Maybe I'm just a little bit weird?
If, and/or when the deal goes thru,..........I'll be happy to post some pictures.
I wouldn’t post pictures of it either, I get it. Most do. I hope you received the information you asked for from the right people. Best of luck in your quest. I can PICTURE it 😉
Well this is the car, very nice car but the guy that I was helping with the purchase couldn't come to an agreement on price, and passed on the deal ($62K Canadian.....aprox.$46K US), a friend of his ended up purchasing the car apparently for $61K..
Last edited by hotrod442; June 7th, 2023 at 10:57 AM.
Looks like a nice driver car.
Am I correct in saying the TCS should be mounted on the passenger side? Not sure why it's mounted in this location.
Look closely at the front lower corner of cylinder head, to see the battery cable tube mounted there? (Obviously should be located at the rear of the cyl. head)
The car had a non OEM, replacement steering box, that the owner figured was to sloppy to pass a Safety Check. He (the owner) had the car "restored" (about 4 years ago) at a restoration shop that I'm sure many here have watched on TV. (Restoration Garage on the Discovery Channel) I think he would have been better served to have taken the car to an "Olds Specific" restorer. The striping is not quite right (as is often the case), door fitment needed work (which when corrected, would cause the stripe alignment to be out),the firewall has been painted body color (easy fix but ?), Oh, and there was a fair size "scuff" about 10 diameter, in the passenger side front fender, from hitting the garage door while backing the car in/.out.
Not sure what work was requested to be performed during the "restoration", but I went on the "Guild's" website were they have a few pictures of the car before/during the restoration. They have one picture were the body is off the frame, and mounted on a dolly.......so they had the frame out from under the car, ......yet the frame has not been blasted/detailed it appeared like it got a "rattle can" touch up done to it. That being said, the frame, and under body are in very good condition.
The exhaust was also redone, with the headers pictured, as well as Flowmaster Type, exhaust that leaves a bit to be desired (hangs to low under the car, shitty looking welds on the joints, tail pipes stick out way to far, etc.)
On the more positive side, you can tell by looking at some of the details that this car has always been well cared for, (and stored inside)..........the door panels, carpet, and front/rear seats are original!
It is a definitely a VERY nice car, but I estimate it'll take about $10K to get it right
May 28th, 2023, 07:26 AM
