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I just wanted to introduce myself and say thank you for all the information I have picked up through out the various threads on the site.
I just picked up my first classic car, a 1964 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 Holiday Sedan, and really like the look of the vehicle and can see alot of fun to be had in it and working on it.
Currently working on a painless wiring kit to solve some issues brought on by age and prior owners, next will be new seals for the trans as it leaks more than a old garden hose followed by the fabrication of some brackets to get the T.V. rod hooked back up since the prior owner felt it was not needed.
Thanks and Hello!
Last edited by TheMissingMiles; September 26th, 2022 at 09:26 PM.
Currently working on a painless wiring kit to solve some issues brought on by age and prior owners, next will be new seals for the trans as it leaks more than a old garden hose followed by the fabrication of some brackets to get the T.V. rod hooked back up since the prior owner felt it was not needed.
Not 100% sure a Painless kit is the way to go since what they'll sell you will probably be for an Impala. There's differences.
Armed with the 5 volume set 1964 Oldsmobile factory Chassis Service Manual, you'll be able to correct and repair your wiring issues, and also to correct the buggered transmission control linkage.
Up front- Slim Jim TV rod adjustment is finicky. See if you can find a 63-64 parts car that has it and get the bracket and linkage from that. There's differences between 2 barrel and 4 barrel so get it from a car that has same engine as yours.
Always amazes me when a car's owner thinks he knows more about what makes it function than the people who designed, engineered, and built it. If you're lucky PO didn't ruin the trans by running it without the TV linkage hooked up.
Not 100% sure a Painless kit is the way to go since what they'll sell you will probably be for an Impala. There's differences.
Armed with the 5 volume set 1964 Oldsmobile factory Chassis Service Manual, you'll be able to correct and repair your wiring issues, and also to correct the buggered transmission control linkage.
Up front- Slim Jim TV rod adjustment is finicky. See if you can find a 63-64 parts car that has it and get the bracket and linkage from that. There's differences between 2 barrel and 4 barrel so get it from a car that has same engine as yours.
Always amazes me when a car's owner thinks he knows more about what makes it function than the people who designed, engineered, and built it. If you're lucky PO didn't ruin the trans by running it without the TV linkage hooked up.
I picked up this kit https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10412 while it may not be exact it will work as a base to build on, the original fuse block is heavily corroded and some circuits damaged and with the other odd wiring decisions in place I figured a complete restart was in order. As you mentioned I had already picked up the service manuals so feel pretty good about getting things back in order.
As far as the TV rod I do not think it will be as simple as you are suggesting the guy who had the car previously put a Holley 750 double pumper on it and the throttle closed is the opposite of the stock rigs so I need to fab something up to invert the motion on the rod..
I do not feel like it has been ruined per say but it does need a set of seals and gaskets, but from what I have gathered they are known to be hard to keep from leaking, I ordered in a seal and gasket kit from Fatsco and will go that direction if the TV rod fix offers good news otherwise I will learn how to rebuild it.
As far as the TV rod I do not think it will be as simple as you are suggesting the guy who had the car previously put a Holley 750 double pumper on it and the throttle closed is the opposite of the stock rigs so I need to fab something up to invert the motion on the rod..
I.
My advice would be to pitch that Holley in the trash can,
Find a 63 or 64 parts car, and get the stock 4 GC carb and linkage from it.
Rebuild the carb and install and adjust the linkage properly.
As others have mentioned , the life of this trans depends on a proper TV linkage adjustment.
Small update:
Almost done with the complete rewire of the car, noticed the carpet was wet on the passengers side of the car so pulled the heater core while the dash was off and sure enough it was leaking.
Sanded and repainted the heater core housing and have it ready to go back in when the dash wiring is done.
Pulled all the carpet and am in the process of sanding all the surface rust down to be repainted so I can put carpet back in but I found this cool build sheet.
I am really surprised by the lack of rust issues most everything I have found so far is just surface rust. I will get a shot of it after all the painting and dynomat.
Last edited by TheMissingMiles; October 18th, 2022 at 01:21 PM.
Welcome aboard and congratulations on your good taste in large Oldsmobiles. My first Olds was a 64 Dynamic like yours. Listen to Charlie Jones regarding the carb and trans linkage.
Welcome aboard and congratulations on your good taste in large Oldsmobiles. My first Olds was a 64 Dynamic like yours. Listen to Charlie Jones regarding the carb and trans linkage.
Thanks
I am taking Charlie's advice, I had a 2B intake in the trunk and 2B carb so switching out for that, as well as switching back to a mechanical fuel pump over the electric that the previous owner installed.
Intake has has been hot tanked and just needs painted then I will be ready to solve the mysterious T.V. setup. As a side note never considered painting the intake a tough decision but seems to be a pain to decide which OEM color it should be with options of red, black and supposedly teal.
I also found a set of steel fender skirts for the car I am considering picking up, thinking it would look good once all finished with them.
If anyone anyone has a lead on the trim that's missing on the lower part of the rear Oldsmobile trim let me know, it appears to be the only trim I am missing, couple others could be replaced versus repaired but not as high on the list as this piece.
[QUOTE=TheMissingMiles;1458751]. As a side note never considered painting the intake a tough decision but seems to be a pain to decide which OEM color it should be with options of red, black and supposedly teal.
/QUOTE]
According to your option sheet, it shows no engine option.
The standard engine for a Dynamic 88 that year was a 280 HP high compression 394 with a two barrel.
These engines were painted entirely red. Except the air cleaner, which is painted black.
Fusick Automotive sells the original red in spray cans.
Dupli Color "Ford Red" engine paint is a very close match and is available at O'Reilly's much cheaper.
Engine options were a 260 HP low compression 394 with a two barrel which was painted a green (teal) color.
Also optional was a 330 HP high compression 394 with a four barrel that was painted red with silver painted valve covers and air cleaner.
No engines were painted black.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; October 19th, 2022 at 07:09 PM.
If anyone anyone has a lead on the trim that's missing on the lower part of the rear Oldsmobile trim let me know, it appears to be the only trim I am missing, couple others could be replaced versus repaired but not as high on the list as this piece.
That whole "trim package" was factory part number 384875'
Pat McMillan (deadds) has a "ton of NOS mouldings".
Send him a PM with that number and he might just have one. If not, he may also have a used one.
Since winter has hit, I pulled the engine and trans for rebuilding, found a guy locally that has done the "Slim Jims" and was a fair price so it is to be dropped off tomorrow for service, the motor on the other hand had some surprises I was not expecting, the wear on the camshaft was something I had never seen before not to mention the chunks missing which i can only assume was the result of the guy who installed the camshaft the last time it was messed with.
my advice would be to pitch that holley in the trash can, find a 63 or 64 parts car, and get the stock 4 gc carb and linkage from it.
Rebuild the carb and install and adjust the linkage properly.
as others have mentioned , the life of this trans depends on a proper tv linkage adjustment.
It looks like a normal, well-worn camshaft. none of the lobes are rounded.
It, along with the lifters, should be replaced though.
Looking at the deck surface, it looks as though there were steel shim head gaskets there.
If so, it's likely that the engine was never opened since coming from the factory.
The cylinder ridge doesn't look too bad so it may clean up with a .030 overbore.
Your machinist will be able to tell for sure.
It looks like a normal, well-worn camshaft. none of the lobes are rounded.
It, along with the lifters, should be replaced though.
Looking at the deck surface, it looks as though there were steel shim head gaskets there.
If so, it's likely that the engine was never opened since coming from the factory.
The cylinder ridge doesn't look too bad so it may clean up with a .030 overbore.
Your machinist will be able to tell for sure.
Ok good to know, I was concerned it was ran low on oil from the looks of the cam but I am not a motor guy either. You are spot on it was a steel gasket, only reason I assumed the heads had been taken off is the paint job made it appear like they had.
I have no experience having machine work done on motors, I was planning on measuring the bores comparing to the spec I have in the manual and then requesting larger if needed from there, would that be the correct method?
I was also planning on having the driveshaft ground or polished depending on it s conditions, will know more when I tear it the rest of the way down this weekend.
I have seen the back and forth on hardened valve seats and I am unsure if I should do them as it will be a cruiser not a road trip long haul car, was figuring to just check to make sure the rockers were in good shape and have the heads machined flat.
Any suggestions or advice welcome as this is not my strong suit.
Ok good to know, I was concerned it was ran low on oil from the looks of the cam but I am not a motor guy either. You are spot on it was a steel gasket, only reason I assumed the heads had been taken off is the paint job made it appear like they had.
I have no experience having machine work done on motors, I was planning on measuring the bores comparing to the spec I have in the manual and then requesting larger if needed from there, would that be the correct method?
I was also planning on having the driveshaft ground or polished depending on it s conditions, will know more when I tear it the rest of the way down this weekend.
I have seen the back and forth on hardened valve seats and I am unsure if I should do them as it will be a cruiser not a road trip long haul car, was figuring to just check to make sure the rockers were in good shape and have the heads machined flat.
Any suggestions or advice welcome as this is not my strong suit.
#1. Do you have proper measuring tools and proficiency using them ? Dial or digital caliphers won't work.
#2. Driveshaft........ Use a powered wire wheel to remove rust and then paint. Don't grind or "polish" the drive shaft, you could throw it out of balance. If you are calling the crankshaft a "driveshaft", DISREGARD #2 completely.
#3. Rocker arm shafts and rocker arms can be checked for size and "out of roundness" and cleaned. If any are worn, they need to be replaced, bushed, or refurbished.
#4. You can check the block deck and heads for straightness with a straight edge and feeler gauges. You may decide to have the block decked and heads milled to clean up.
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; November 29th, 2022 at 11:39 AM.
Ok good to know, I was concerned it was ran low on oil from the looks of the cam but I am not a motor guy either. You are spot on it was a steel gasket, only reason I assumed the heads had been taken off is the paint job made it appear like they had.
I have no experience having machine work done on motors, I was planning on measuring the bores comparing to the spec I have in the manual and then requesting larger if needed from there, would that be the correct method?
I was also planning on having the driveshaft ground or polished depending on it s conditions, will know more when I tear it the rest of the way down this weekend.
I have seen the back and forth on hardened valve seats and I am unsure if I should do them as it will be a cruiser not a road trip long haul car, was figuring to just check to make sure the rockers were in good shape and have the heads machined flat.
Any suggestions or advice welcome as this is not my strong suit.
In your case it is probably best to disassemble the engine. Wash the oil off the parts, and take it all to an automotive machine shop.
They will have the proper tools to measure and evaluate the parts. Let them determine how much the cylinders need to be over bored.
By driveshaft, did you actually mean crankshaft? There again, let a machinist with a micrometer determine whether the crank can be just polished, or reground, and to what undersize.
Here' a link to my 394 rebuild. I did do a performance rebuild with the forged pistons and hi lift cam but those are not necessary in a stock rebuild. 394 "Rocket" engine build - ClassicOldsmobile.com
YIKES, I didn't realize he might be referring to the crankshaft as a "driveshaft". You need to learn correct terminology.
You are correct, its what I get for trying to write a post in the middle of my work shift, thanks for the input.
Originally Posted by Charlie Jones
In your case it is probably best to disassemble the engine. Wash the oil off the parts, and take it all to an automotive machine shop.
They will have the proper tools to measure and evaluate the parts. Let them determine how much the cylinders need to be over bored.
By driveshaft, did you actually mean crankshaft? There again, let a machinist with a micrometer determine whether the crank can be just polished, or reground, and to what undersize.
Here' a link to my 394 rebuild. I did do a performance rebuild with the forged pistons and hi lift cam but those are not necessary in a stock rebuild. 394 "Rocket" engine build - ClassicOldsmobile.com
Charlie, thanks alot for the comments and link very helpful, I stopped by and spoke with two shops that are highly regarded, I think I am going to take your advice and turn it over to one of them and see what they recommend, I feel comfortable assembling the motor, I was just lost on what to have done, and how to go about it.
Well trans is in being rebuilt, heads, crank and block have been dropped off and I am awaiting info from him to purchase parts for the rebuild. I have come across a couple of different sources for these parts and was hoping for feedback from those here on the quality of the vendor and parts supplied, I am leaning towards EGGE fyi.
I have bought from Egge Machine before, good quality and service.
No experience with BOP Parts.
The Egge kit contains a lot more parts than the BOP kit.
Some of which may or may not be needed in your case.
It is best to consult with your machinist, to see what you really need.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; December 13th, 2022 at 06:04 PM.
Well long time no post, finally have the motor back together after getting it back from the machinist, ended up going .030 over and having it decked and balanced. I also opted for a higher flow oil pump and had the machinist open up the galleys.
Now I am on to figuring out the vacuum lines which seem to be dropped from the service manuals unless you are working under the dash on the heater, anyone have a resource to tell me where and what all the ports on the manifold are intended to go?
Here are some pictures of the progress so far.
looking very good Time to get it together to much red Tedious work.. Semi all dressed up
The small port on the rear of the intake manifold goes to a vacuum ball. which supplies vacuum to the HVAC system.
The big port on the intake goes to the power brakes.
The port on the rear of the carb goes to the distributor.
The port on the front of the carb goes to the PCV valve on the valve cover.
That's it. Pretty simple in '64.
The small port on the rear of the intake manifold goes to a vacuum ball. which supplies vacuum to the HVAC system.
The big port on the intake goes to the power brakes.
The port on the rear of the carb goes to the distributor.
The port on the front of the carb goes to the PCV valve on the valve cover.
That's it. Pretty simple in '64.
ok I had 3 ports on the manifold so it had me stumped, especially the one that is on the bottom of it.
ok I had 3 ports on the manifold so it had me stumped, especially the one that is on the bottom of it.
If you're talking about the one on the bottom in the middle under the carb, that is associated with the heat tube that goes to the choke thermostat on the carb.
If you're talking about the one on the bottom in the middle under the carb, that is associated with the heat tube that goes to the choke thermostat on the carb.
That's correct that was one I was wondering about, the previous owner had chopped up the original 4 barrel manifold to fit a new Holley carb so most of the original vacuum lines were missing or messed with and I am trying to take it back to stock or as close as I can atleast and did not have an example to go off of.
Small update: I have been working on the car and got the motor and trans installed then decided to wrap up the air ride install which is ongoing since I have a rule that anything that comes off has to be cleaned up and painted.
But now I have a bigger problem, one I feel I might need a intervention to handle.
And I have decided to swap the motor and trans I rebuilt over to the 2 door and do a light rebuild of the 394 in this and a trans adapter and a different trans for 4 door.
Last edited by TheMissingMiles; April 24th, 2024 at 02:49 PM.
. As a side note never considered painting the intake a tough decision but seems to be a pain to decide which OEM color it should be with options of red, black and supposedly teal.
/QUOTE]
According to your option sheet, it shows no engine option.
The standard engine for a Dynamic 88 that year was a 280 HP high compression 394 with a two barrel.
These engines were painted entirely red. Except the air cleaner, which is painted black.
Fusick Automotive sells the original red in spray cans.
Dupli Color "Ford Red" engine paint is a very close match and is available at O'Reilly's much cheaper.
Engine options were a 260 HP low compression 394 with a two barrel which was painted a green (teal) color.
Also optional was a 330 HP high compression 394 with a four barrel that was painted red with silver painted valve covers and air cleaner.
No engines were painted black.
The standard engine was green, 280 HP according to Wiki. 260 was export. The engine code is stamped on the drivers side head. "H" code is the Super 88/Starfire. I think you'll find the Jetstar ran the 330 ci engine, same as the F85. Base Dynamic 88 had a green (teal) 280 HP 394 ci with an HL engine code. Export was "HE"- that is, H prefix, L or E suffix. Only the high compression engine was red. I can show you the standard compression (low compression, 8.75:1) pistons of you want to see them. Tech guide has an illustration of the different pistons I believe... I know I saw it somewhere... H prefix, L suffix. Not factory paint, but there were traces of green everywhere and this is Hirsch paint, supposed to be the right color for a 1964 HL code engine
Here are the specifications from the service manual.
For example this is mine, straight H code with 10.25:1 compression pistons
The motor I was working with appeared to have had a craigslist rebuild and was rattle can painted gold, which I found interesting as the markings on the block and the fact it was a 34 series car did not support that, guess you never know what the guy before did or knew.
September 26th, 2022, 08:32 PM
