1Fastolds

I just got my new drums for my 64 98, and now I need to figure out how to separate the hubs from the drums. Are they pressed on?

I'm asking this question now, as the old drums/hubs are at work, and the new ones are here with me. I think that, if memory serves me right, the studs are tacked onto the back of the hubs, but I didn't see anything that was holding the hubs to the drums, other than friction.

I'm learning a lot about these old girls. Big difference between this 64 and the 87 Cutlass it is replacing.

adam

tru-blue 442

I'm not sure on the older 98's,
but on the A body, 68-71, I have
just used a BFH and a 2X4 block of
wood. Lay it flat on a concrete floor,
studs up, and lay into the center of it.
You may try to get some oil around the
studs and center prior to whacking on it.

tecar442

What's holding the drums on is rust. Penetrating oil and some gentle persuasion with a hammer should do it. As stated you should use a wooden block to prevent damaging anything. Be patient, it'll come.

stan 65 cutlass

i pounded the crap outa my 64 bonneville drums, turns out the bearing cap uscrewed first, silly me

Charlie Jones

You might take them to someone with an arbor press.
Much less chance of damage to rare and hard to obtain parts.
Oh, be sure to have the new drums re-machined after installing them on the hubs with the studs
A very light cut should be all that's necessary, if the drums were installed properly.

svnt442

Knock the studs out and you should be able to separate the drum from the hub.

BILL DEMMER

this might be a silly question, but are the drums/hubs 2-piece? some weren't, back in the day.


bill

Charlie Jones

Yes, Bill, they were. But they fit very tight. Unlike the later A bodies. Which would practically slip off by hand , if not rusted.

1Fastolds

Just to be clear, I do mean separating the hubs from the drums, once they are off the vehicle. I've already unscrewed the bearings and have taken the drums off the car. I'm not sure if that was clear to everyone that responded.

I have access to a press. I'm going to investigate further when I get to work and actually look at them a little harder.


Thanks for everyones responses.
Adam

66400

Best answer!

Henry

1Fastolds

Ok, I got the drums off the hubs using a press. I'm a little concerned/cautious about trying to get the new ones on the hubs. The studs have a little portion of the splines that keep it in place on the hub that protrude out and grab the drum. I guess I just need to press them back on?

I feel dumb for asking simple questions. But I appreciate the answers!

Adam

Charlie Jones

There are no dumb questions. Except the ones you don't ask.
Clean the hub. Remove all rust and burrs from the mating surfaces and coat with antisieze compound.
Make sure you have one stud at least partially installed to assure "indexing" of the holes.
Press the hub into the new drum and then press in the studs. Be careful to support the drum properly, so as not to warp it.

1Fastolds

Charlie-
So you would remove the studs from the hub, press the hub onto the drum and then press the studs back into the hub/drum assembly? Should i get new studs? I didn't think that far ahead.

Thanks for the detailed responses. I have left my comfort zone for the Oldie times, and i'm hoping that everyone here can point me in the right direction.

Adam

66400

I find if you drive out the studs you expand the holes and make for a loose fit for new studs. The existing studs are swelled to retain the drum resulting in the holes in the hub for the studs being slightly larger if you drive them out.

Henry

Charlie Jones

The reason I put the studs in last is to avoid damage to the threads.
The studs can be re-used as long as the threads are not damaged, bent, or pitted by rust.

Oldsmaniac

X-2! I once pounded out a stud. Then took the drum to an industrial brake shop. The guy looked at it and the stud and said I just ruined the whole assembly. I was attempting to install longer studs for centerline wheels...

66400

I'd leave the studs in place. Put the drum on the hub find washer slightly larger than the studs and tighten lug nuts to seat drum on the lug studs. After that's done dsicard the washers.
Henry

Charlie Jones

The key here is you "pounded out " the old stud. If you use a press you won't have this problem. I have removed and reinstalled hundreds of wheel studs in my career as an automotive machine shop man "back in the day".

Charlie Jones

I'm sorry but I think this is a bad idea. And a good way to ruin a new drum.
Use the press.

66400

If you use a press you won't have this problem. I have removed and reinstalled hundreds of wheel studs [/QUOTE]


So practice does make perfect!

Henry

66400

Over time I've replaced a couple of dozen drums on various BOP cars in this fashion with excellent results after the first time I drove(big hammer) out the studs and ruined two hubs by doing so. Not every one has a press on hand.


Henry

Don R.

If you look in the shop manual they say the proper way to remove a stud is to drill out the back and drive the stud out towards the front of the hub with a press. The studs were peened in place at the factory and that is what holds the drum in place. I would not remove the studs now, the question will be whether the new drums will fit over the serrated sections of the studs. If they fit and seat all way down on the hub you might try using tinnerman nuts to hold the drums like they used for the rears. Torqueing the wheels in place will do the rest.

1Fastolds

ok, so it appears that the studs are "swaged" in. One of my hubs had 5 studs tack welded on the rear of them. I found out why... someone along the line drove the studs out with a hammer and made the hub stud holes too big. I got new studs from Napa, and got them out by cutting the studs off flush using a cutoff tool. This removed the "swaging", allowing the splined part to be pressed out the back. The ones with the tack welded studs had to be re-tacked welded in, since someone else (not me!, a previous owner!!) decided to try it the backyard way.

The other hub I was able to do the same way by cutting off the studs flush to remove the swage, and did not have to tack them in place. The problem I have now is that the studs are not swaged, and I am wondering if that will be a problem. Some research online shows that most people who reported doing this did not swage the new ones in, and showed no ill-effects from it.

It looks like my schedule will allow me to work on my 64 this weekend, hopefully getting the control arms and brakes back together!

Thanks for all the help!
Adam