Help timing non cc HEI
#1
Help timing non cc HEI
Swapped my intake, carb and distributor on my 84 307 and I've been messing with the timing trying to get it to run, started with 0 advance, tried around 10, and around 20. Definitely not 180 off on TDC as I had the intake off amd could see enough of the valves to know it was on compression. Bottle feeding the carb and I I'll get spits and shudders and an occasional fire out the carb. Hasn't run yet. I've advanced and retarded it by twisting it forward and back.
I'm going to put a new fuel pump on and have that feed the carb next just to make starting it easier. Any ideas to try out today would be appreciated
I'm going to put a new fuel pump on and have that feed the carb next just to make starting it easier. Any ideas to try out today would be appreciated
#2
First ensure the engine is at TDC. Stuff something in #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine until it blows out - I use a wine cork.
Once you have that, ensure the distributor is stabbed correctly so the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire terminal. Due to the angle of the gear it will rotate when dropping it in, so you have to compensate.
Once you have that, ensure the distributor is stabbed correctly so the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire terminal. Due to the angle of the gear it will rotate when dropping it in, so you have to compensate.
#3
First ensure the engine is at TDC. Stuff something in #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine until it blows out - I use a wine cork.
Once you have that, ensure the distributor is stabbed correctly so the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire terminal. Due to the angle of the gear it will rotate when dropping it in, so you have to compensate.
Once you have that, ensure the distributor is stabbed correctly so the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire terminal. Due to the angle of the gear it will rotate when dropping it in, so you have to compensate.
#5
#8
Sounds as if you're getting spark and fuel based on fireballs.
Based on your description, it sounds like you might be a tooth or two out based on the spitting and coughing, or a couple of wires are swapped if it's not 180 out as you say. Assuming it's sputtering no matter where you put the distributor? Just my opinion. No video, no pictures, nothing for us to go on except a sentence.
My advice is to STOP. I know it sounds basic, but find TDC on the compression stroke again on #1. Don't guess. Sometimes it helps to double-check your work. Take #1 plug out and make sure you're on the compression stroke while manually turning or bumping the engine over (may take a helper). Set timing mark to TDC from there, check distributor rotor position, and set it back to pointing at or near #1 cylinder if needed. Install cap, make sure you get the wires on the proper terminals for the firing order CCW, and go from there. Unless you have bent or burnt valves, the engine should try to fire up and run.
I'd still set the plug gap at around 0.045" or thereabouts. You don't need 0.060," or even the recommended 0.080" as you may see on the emissions label. The car will run just fine with 0.045" and not overtax the ignition module. That huge gap was really done more for emissions on the lean-burn CCC stuff, and assuming this swap was done to get off the computer.
Based on your description, it sounds like you might be a tooth or two out based on the spitting and coughing, or a couple of wires are swapped if it's not 180 out as you say. Assuming it's sputtering no matter where you put the distributor? Just my opinion. No video, no pictures, nothing for us to go on except a sentence.
My advice is to STOP. I know it sounds basic, but find TDC on the compression stroke again on #1. Don't guess. Sometimes it helps to double-check your work. Take #1 plug out and make sure you're on the compression stroke while manually turning or bumping the engine over (may take a helper). Set timing mark to TDC from there, check distributor rotor position, and set it back to pointing at or near #1 cylinder if needed. Install cap, make sure you get the wires on the proper terminals for the firing order CCW, and go from there. Unless you have bent or burnt valves, the engine should try to fire up and run.
I'd still set the plug gap at around 0.045" or thereabouts. You don't need 0.060," or even the recommended 0.080" as you may see on the emissions label. The car will run just fine with 0.045" and not overtax the ignition module. That huge gap was really done more for emissions on the lean-burn CCC stuff, and assuming this swap was done to get off the computer.
#9
Rather than eyeballing the valves with the intake off, why not verify TDC on compression with the plug out? Sorry, but we're not there to see exactly what you have been doing and there have been FAR too many threads like this where the OP comes back later and after swearing up and down that the distributor is in right, sheepishly admits that the distributor was actually 180 out.
#10
Rather than eyeballing the valves with the intake off, why not verify TDC on compression with the plug out? Sorry, but we're not there to see exactly what you have been doing and there have been FAR too many threads like this where the OP comes back later and after swearing up and down that the distributor is in right, sheepishly admits that the distributor was actually 180 out.
#13
He's a diesel mechanic and swapped to newer cars, turbos and tuning basically. Anything pre 90s and hes apparently ***** so yea. I'll stuck with my buddy who raced modified dirt track cars and has built 100 small blocks from here on out
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dschallock
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April 29th, 2011 10:57 AM