Transmission swap
#1
Transmission swap
Hey so I have a 55 olds super 88. The transmission will not shift up but ever gear works, drive reverse etc. I’ve tried adjusting the throttle valve. At my work we have another 55 olds but I’m not sure if it’s a regular 88 because the engine only has a 2bbl carb. And there’s only one little **** sticking out of the side of the tranny for tranny linkage to go. But that tranny is good and I’m planning to swap them out. Will I run into any issues?
#2
The Super 888, 88 and 98 all had the same transmission in 55. It was 56 when they changed and used the Jetaway in the Super 88 and 98. It was the first time Oldsmobile had Park on a transmission. The 88 still used the same old Hydra-Matic.
#3
You mentioned that the 88 at your work has a different carburetor. If you swap the transmission from your co-worker's then make sure you swap carburetors as well. Post some pics so we can see the difference between your Olds and your co-worker's.
#6
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Yeah I was not happy about that, because they look the exact same but when I tried to put it on the bolt pattern was smaller. I’m wondering if the engine ci was smaller on that car, did that year have an engine smaller than 324cui?
#7
The water pumps for 1949 - 1962 Oldsmobiles are all the same. There are different pumps for non-AC cars and AC cars with six blades and eight blades respectively but they interchange. It would not matter but the only engine available that year was the 324. Here is a link to Fusicks listing.
1949-62 Olds V8 water pump (fusickautomotiveproducts.com)
1949-62 Olds V8 water pump (fusickautomotiveproducts.com)
#8
Reply
I’m not sure then I just know it wouldn’t fit on mine and I even tried to put a new gasket on that pump and it didn’t line up but it did when I put that gasket on my pump. And my car has no options not even power brakes, I can’t say the same for the other car because the engine and tranny are already out. If the tranny has been sitting out for a year or more but worked when it was in the car, do you think it will still work? It does still have the fluid and is connected to the engine
#9
This is strange, as all first generation water pumps should interchange as mentioned above. Does the valve covers look the same, as in the amount of bolts holding them on? What numbers are on the heads, #7, 8, or 10? We are missing something here... The transmission may or may not be good, hard to tell, crap shoot any way. Did any water get into the transmission? Does the transmission fluid look pinkish, and does it smell burnt.? I would look further on the transmission in your car, is the fluid low? Try adjusting the trans at the bell crank near the carburetor or manually pull up or down on the long rod going to the transmission. Keep us informed on any progress were curious...Tedd
#10
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I’m not sure if numbers I can’t check right now, how ever the valve covers and bolts are the exact same it just has a 2 bbl carb and intake. I’m gonna get the car in the air tomorrow and check the tranny adjustments and give a shot but will most likely swap them cuz I’ve already tried adjusting them driving it and it won’t shift up. I will keep you posted. Right now my current tranny is filled above the full line and I’ve put that stop slip fluid in it and nothing. The other tranny the fluid looks good and no water in it, that fluid is more red not pink. It’s kind of my last option and if the new doesn’t work then at least my original will be out and I can dig into.
#12
Use the 4bbl throttle rod and linkage from your Super 88 and connect it to the 2bbl car's transmission. Then adjust it as needed for the 4bbl. Fingers crossed it functions properly after sitting unused. It wasn't stored uncovered outside was it?
I can't explain the water pump. 49-62 are the same as noted above, but be aware other carmakers used similar round water pumps too. You might have a completely wrong pump for a different car.
I can't explain the water pump. 49-62 are the same as noted above, but be aware other carmakers used similar round water pumps too. You might have a completely wrong pump for a different car.
#13
Reply.
Ok I will use the linkage but doesn’t it have to be set a certain way or it won’t shift? I don’t think it’s a different pump and housing they are exactly the same. Either way I have a new pump coming. No it wasn’t uncovered. Since I’m swapping trans should I switch the torque converter too? Also, I’ve done a full carb clean and repair and my acceleration pump is good but for some reason after the car warms up and especially if it’s in gear when I go to press on the gas it almost wants to die unless I baby it. It’s like it’s not getting the fuel but it is. The injectors are squirting
#14
You mean the accelerator pump? You can see the accelerator pump squirt fuel into the venturi with the choke plate open. This will let you know that the fuel bowl in your carburetor isn't leaking down overnight.
FWIW, I had a TH400 sitting on the floor of my garage for 8 years and put it back in my 71 98 and it shifts fine.
FWIW, I had a TH400 sitting on the floor of my garage for 8 years and put it back in my 71 98 and it shifts fine.
#15
Reply
Yes accelerator pump, which is new and it does squirt fuel but not until about half way up from moving the throttle with my hand. I mean it drips a little when I start to move the throttle but not a good squirt until half way up. My other accelerator pump was bad but I put a good one and it’s still doing this. Good to know, I’m trying to be optimistic about this swap and tomorrow is the big day so we will see.
#16
You want to activate the throttle completely to test the accelerator pump. Do it in the morning with the engine stone cold. That let's you see if you have fuel in your carburetor.
Sorry I steered us off course. Let us know how that transmission swap works and provide some pics.
Sorry I steered us off course. Let us know how that transmission swap works and provide some pics.
#17
Reply
Well guys I did all I could do today with the tranny swap. Everything was correct as far as the swap but it was a bit harder than I thought and had do remove more than I thought but what made it harder was all the rock hard sludge covering the bolts and nuts I needed to remove. And found out there was 32 bolts holding the converter to the fly wheel. I would have put the other trans in but I discovered that I need a gasket that goes between the fly wheel and the converter so I just ordered that today from fusik so I should be able to pick this up next sat as long as the gasket comes in time. Is there any way the throttle valve could have fallen off the linkage inside the trans that would have kept it from shifting?
#18
I had the pleasure of doing this a few months ago, what a pain, if i could offer any advice, buy the Fatsco external seal kit, there is a seal behind the Torus on the input shaft that can only be replaced when the transmission is out. I had some trans issues ( no 2nd and 4th gears) on my original and took a chance on a trans i got as part of the deal when i bought my 55, i did originally change the seals on the first transmission, i didn't on the second and sure as hell, it leaks from the input shaft. not terrible but enough to leave its mark where its parked. there are also a few seals on the side cover, one with an "O" ring and another with a rubber seal and 2 curved washers. On the second transmission i removed the valve body and let it soak in gasoline to get rid of any sludge (there was a ton of it), then dried it and did another soak in clean ATF. Shifts like a top now. The manual i had stated not to use carburetor cleaner on the valve body, not sure why, "White Gasoline" is what it suggested, maybe thats the equivalent of Coleman fuel? anyway, the regular gasoline did a great job as a solvent.
#19
"Is there any way the throttle valve could have fallen off the linkage inside the trans that would have kept it from shifting?"
The shaft moves a plunger/piston that is spring loaded, you should feel resistance and it should go back to its original position if you twist it with some plyers. If the throttle shaft was adjusted too short it will definitely keep it from shifting, i had to play around a little before it shifted correctly.
The shaft moves a plunger/piston that is spring loaded, you should feel resistance and it should go back to its original position if you twist it with some plyers. If the throttle shaft was adjusted too short it will definitely keep it from shifting, i had to play around a little before it shifted correctly.
#20
Reply
I had the pleasure of doing this a few months ago, what a pain, if i could offer any advice, buy the Fatsco external seal kit, there is a seal behind the Torus on the input shaft that can only be replaced when the transmission is out. I had some trans issues ( no 2nd and 4th gears) on my original and took a chance on a trans i got as part of the deal when i bought my 55, i did originally change the seals on the first transmission, i didn't on the second and sure as hell, it leaks from the input shaft. not terrible but enough to leave its mark where its parked. there are also a few seals on the side cover, one with an "O" ring and another with a rubber seal and 2 curved washers. On the second transmission i removed the valve body and let it soak in gasoline to get rid of any sludge (there was a ton of it), then dried it and did another soak in clean ATF. Shifts like a top now. The manual i had stated not to use carburetor cleaner on the valve body, not sure why, "White Gasoline" is what it suggested, maybe thats the equivalent of Coleman fuel? anyway, the regular gasoline did a great job as a solvent.
#22
Beware of one thing on the 55 transmission. The tailshaft seal is not on the rear of the tailshaft like most transmissions are. I found this out on my 54 which had a 55 engine and transmission in it. The actual seal is inside the tailshaft and the seal installed from the rear of the transmission is just a dust seal. I would replace this while the transmission is out.
#23
Getting back to the water pump.
It's very possible that when who ever rebuilt the new one that doesn't fit, didn't get the impeller pressed all the way on the shaft, and interferes with the engine side when you try to bolt it on. As you said, another pump should solve the issue.
Other than that, how does it not fit?
It's very possible that when who ever rebuilt the new one that doesn't fit, didn't get the impeller pressed all the way on the shaft, and interferes with the engine side when you try to bolt it on. As you said, another pump should solve the issue.
Other than that, how does it not fit?
#25
Reply
Getting back to the water pump.
It's very possible that when who ever rebuilt the new one that doesn't fit, didn't get the impeller pressed all the way on the shaft, and interferes with the engine side when you try to bolt it on. As you said, another pump should solve the issue.
Other than that, how does it not fit?
It's very possible that when who ever rebuilt the new one that doesn't fit, didn't get the impeller pressed all the way on the shaft, and interferes with the engine side when you try to bolt it on. As you said, another pump should solve the issue.
Other than that, how does it not fit?
#26
Ok, disregard my ignorance then....reading comprehension.
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