Repair Suggestions
#1
Repair Suggestions
So working on my ‘63 f85 to get it air/water tight and after removing the windshield found some rust problems in the bottom windshield track.
Im not exactly sure what it’s supposed to look like so not clear on how bad it is. The car had been painted before I got it but is still a solid 7.5/10 so I don’t want and more importantly can’t afford a full repaint.
Anyone have suggestions on repairs, estimated costs if a shop does it or anything else for this situation? Anyone have pics of a clean intact channel so I can compare to?
Im not exactly sure what it’s supposed to look like so not clear on how bad it is. The car had been painted before I got it but is still a solid 7.5/10 so I don’t want and more importantly can’t afford a full repaint.
Anyone have suggestions on repairs, estimated costs if a shop does it or anything else for this situation? Anyone have pics of a clean intact channel so I can compare to?
#4
Some of the expert body guys will probably speak up. I think the best thing would be to try and find some rust free sheet metal from a dry climate. The Buick Special and Pontiac Tempest may have the same sheet metal. That is some ugly stuff but you should be able to get by without a complete repaint. Good luck with the repairs. You are not the first person to face this.
#5
There is no easy fix for this, only welding in new metal. The Y-body cars used both gasket-retained and bonded-in windshields, and the pinchweld is different, so if you get metal from a donor car, be sure it's the right one.
#6
Not a difficult fix, IF you have the right tools. Back when I was getting started, I had a 67 Lemans with a completely rotted out rear window channel. Buying a shrinker stretcher, along with a sheet metal brake, is what you need to do this fix. If you're not going to do this work later on, maybe see if you can borrow one, else you'll need someone to do the repair for you. And, yes, it will need to be welded in.
#8
#9
#11
Joe, you're not helping beat down the shade tree idea of cleaning it up, sealing it and putting as much glue in as it would take haha JK but Id be lying if I said it didnt cross my mind haha
#12
I know the sell window channel for 64 GM’s…and while I’m positive it’s not a direct match, I wonder if it can be pie cut to fit the earlier window channel.
As far as the gasket style window seal…I’m at a complete loss.
As far as the gasket style window seal…I’m at a complete loss.
#13
Not a difficult fix, IF you have the right tools. Back when I was getting started, I had a 67 Lemans with a completely rotted out rear window channel. Buying a shrinker stretcher, along with a sheet metal brake, is what you need to do this fix. If you're not going to do this work later on, maybe see if you can borrow one, else you'll need someone to do the repair for you. And, yes, it will need to be welded in.
This is good advice. Buy the HF shrinker/stretcher kit. You can make that channel easily with a piece of 18 gauge metal.
#14
How does the 64 channel replacements compare to 63? I doubt they have anything actually marketed to the 63 but if a 64 is the same shape just longer or different curves that might be a good starting point instead of having to fab it up from scratch
#15
Entirely different body and structure between '63 and '64. You might as well try using one from a Ford Fairlane.
#16
First things first imho
I know your looking at it with all that crud on it, I would get a wire wheel and clean that crud off and see how bad it really is, to be honest I’m only looking at the picture , See if you really need to replace the whole lower channel, then can you weld? And do you have a welder? Chopolds gave good advice on Shrinker and stretcher and a brake this will allow you to make portions of the lower channel , you can make a template from heavy paper or some old file folders , trace the shape , or get a contour gauge from lowes or Home Depot , this is if you want to try and fix it yourself , either way better to clean it first to see exactly what needs to be done . It could even be done a piece at a time do the seat then the side but this is a lot of work but doable in my opinion.
anyway as a caveat I’m not an expert or a professional I’m just a garage guy , wishing you good luck and will be following along
anyway as a caveat I’m not an expert or a professional I’m just a garage guy , wishing you good luck and will be following along
#18
I know your looking at it with all that crud on it, I would get a wire wheel and clean that crud off and see how bad it really is, to be honest I’m only looking at the picture , See if you really need to replace the whole lower channel, then can you weld? And do you have a welder? Chopolds gave good advice on Shrinker and stretcher and a brake this will allow you to make portions of the lower channel , you can make a template from heavy paper or some old file folders , trace the shape , or get a contour gauge from lowes or Home Depot , this is if you want to try and fix it yourself , either way better to clean it first to see exactly what needs to be done . It could even be done a piece at a time do the seat then the side but this is a lot of work but doable in my opinion.
anyway as a caveat I’m not an expert or a professional I’m just a garage guy , wishing you good luck and will be following along
anyway as a caveat I’m not an expert or a professional I’m just a garage guy , wishing you good luck and will be following along
#19
Thanks guys. The car is currently at my friends house who has the garage space as mine is full of a bike lift and too dam many harley projects to fit the car in. He's more knowledgeable on hot rod building/repair than I am so it makes the most sense. Ill get over there and knock all the rust/crud off and see how far it goes back and see what all is needed.
Definitely not a resto project, but want to fix it to last and the hardest part is the car was already painted and the color has almost a goldish pearl to it so not an easy color match. This means trying to save the paint as much as possible.
Definitely not a resto project, but want to fix it to last and the hardest part is the car was already painted and the color has almost a goldish pearl to it so not an easy color match. This means trying to save the paint as much as possible.
#20
Good luck with your project. I just went through the same thing with the rust. The only savior to mine is a hole new paint job. Keep in mind that welding creates heat and can destroy paint not to mention spark flying around. Be sure to protect your interior. The thing about body shops is most of them won't do that kind of work anymore to busy doing insurance stuff. You might have to find a car builder guy. All I know is rust sucks. Good luck.
#21
Clean all of the rust out to clean shiney metal
Use short fiber glass body filler.
No sparks no cutting no welding.
Check drains on corners if any
You can do this yourself with minimum expense and tools
Poor man's solution
My 2 cents worth - keep the change
Ron
Use short fiber glass body filler.
No sparks no cutting no welding.
Check drains on corners if any
You can do this yourself with minimum expense and tools
Poor man's solution
My 2 cents worth - keep the change
Ron
#22
Clean all of the rust out to clean shiney metal
Use short fiber glass body filler.
No sparks no cutting no welding.
Check drains on corners if any
You can do this yourself with minimum expense and tools
Poor man's solution
My 2 cents worth - keep the change
Ron
Use short fiber glass body filler.
No sparks no cutting no welding.
Check drains on corners if any
You can do this yourself with minimum expense and tools
Poor man's solution
My 2 cents worth - keep the change
Ron
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Tedd Thompson
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May 28th, 2012 12:23 PM