When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've the factory OEM removal and installation set that I will likely not need again. I'd be happy to sell it to you for what I paid, plus shipping, PM me if you are interested.
The drill trick gets the rubber and inner sleeve out but the problem I've always encountered is rust/sticking between the shell and arm. You have to be careful to always support the inside and outside of the arms so as not to bend/distort the geometry. It gets tricky. Unless you're planning on doing this often, the cheapest route is to rent the bushing removal tool set from one of the chain auto parts stores. Always check the contents of the kit before leaving the store as many of these things get bent or have bad threads, etc. due to people not giving a damn.
With the right tools it's not too difficult but always pay attention to the support you're providing the arm. Don't just get your wrench and keep cranking the nut down. You'lll find out all you've been doing is bending the arm around the shell rather than pushing the shell out!
Made a couple phone calls and actually found someone local who has one of these. (Still run in the Mopar crowd even though I'm not wrenching on my own anymore)
I should have it by next weekend, Ill give it a shot and report back.
I just used an air chisel with the edge filed flat so it doesn't cut, and crushed the metal sleeve until it loosened in the control arm hole, then drove it out. I also used the flattened chisel on the new bushing lip to drive them in.
Made a couple phone calls and actually found someone local who has one of these. (Still run in the Mopar crowd even though I'm not wrenching on my own anymore)
I should have it by next weekend, Ill give it a shot and report back.
Well Mopar guys sure know struggles with suspension...Ha Ha ha...🤣😂
I have the tool in my garage now, so thats a plus. It looks like I need to go find a bigger socket to serve as the "receiver cup", as the one I've got is the size of the bushing but not big enough to catch the outer sleeve. I also need to quit dragging my feet on this, because I'm hoping I have the engine back and in by the end of March..which means I've gotta get these finished up so I can put the rear end back in. I'm tempted to just say screw it, throw the axle in and while its getting its new fuel lines put in just have the bushings swapped out.
Decided to take advantage of the free few minutes this evening and decided I'd go ahead and pull the control arms. Spent an hour, a third of a can of Kroil and any wit I had left..I can't get the bolts to even budge. I am correct in seeing the lowers mount through the frame, and the only way to access is through a hole in the rail, right?
I'm really trying not to have to farm out the simple tasks, but the last couple times I've gone out to get something done..its been flat embarrasing how much Ive been fighting the most ridiculous things.
Yes, that is how you access the bolt heads. The bolts may be rusted into the sleeves in the bushings. The nuts are readily accessible, so if you can get those off, you can then try hammering the bolts out of the sleeves. I've had to do that with non-rusted ones just to get the threaded section of the bolt past the edge of the control arm.
What worked for me was copious amounts of PB Blaster, two to three times a day for a week or so, with some light tapping of the both the bolt heads and the nuts, to set up a vibration and allow capillary action to draw in the PB Blaster solution. Then they come off like butter. I used the same process in removing the exhaust manifold bolts. DON’T rush it, and you’ll be fine.
That's fair. The bolts on the axle side didn't come out with near the struggle (granted I had other issues with the air gun[s] at that time) but I'll just keep soaking them. I was also kinda struggling holding a wrench and hitting the gun with the angle I needed to be..I may just get Pops over here and have him hold one side while I hit it with the gun.
Dad's going to bring the torch in from the mower shop (I had no idea he had one) and were going to torch the old bushings out. Hopefully everything can get done this week, and we can get the rear end back in next weekend.
Dad's going to bring the torch in from the mower shop (I had no idea he had one) and were going to torch the old bushings out. Hopefully everything can get done this week, and we can get the rear end back in next weekend.
well, Dad torched the bushings out so I wirebrushed them and sprayed them with classic black. I figured they were on or near fire, so they should still have enough heat to allow the paint to adhere even though it's 40° outside.
Yes, that is the old sleeve from a bygone bushing. You have to crush it by crushing the cylindrical part between the ears of the CA. Then it should fall right out.
@tnswt not sure where rhe actual message went, but good call. To be honest, at the time I looked at that last night, then immediately posted I had forgotten all about the videos..ha.
Just watched (Part 3 specifically deals with this) so if I get time this evening I'll pop em out. If not, at least I know what I need to do..
Put the bushings in a freezer until your ready to install them, thoroughly clean the bores. If they resist going in put a very light film of lubricant on the bore.
Put the bushings in a freezer until your ready to install them, thoroughly clean the bores. If they resist going in put a very light film of lubricant on the bore.
It's stupid cold in the garage, to the point where I could have installed them this morning had I not had to get to work. I need something to just get the outer sleeve in (pretty sure the vise would do) but the bushings just went right in without even adding the grease (which I'll probably put too much on because I've heard horror stories of poly bushings and the squeak)
Kinda wish I could get the ones off of the axle, after seeing how easy these will drop in(remember, its cold) but theyre new rubber ones so Im not too worried about it.
Put the bushings in a freezer until your ready to install them, thoroughly clean the bores. If they resist going in put a very light film of lubricant on the bore.
Good luck!!!
And don't take them all out of the freezer. When you remove them from the freezer, I would wrap them in an old towel to keep them as cold as you can.
@tnswt not sure where rhe actual message went, but good call. To be honest, at the time I looked at that last night, then immediately posted I had forgotten all about the videos..ha.
Just watched (Part 3 specifically deals with this) so if I get time this evening I'll pop em out. If not, at least I know what I need to do..
Thanks
______________
Brother, I deleted that message after I posted it because I thought it may not be appropriate for the moment. Anyway, I'm glad you appreciate the videos after all; the videos were spot on for me and beneficial. I'm glad you too have seen the benefit from viewing them.
You are well into this project now, and looks like you have the worst behind you. I think! Happy Motoring
When you are ready to press the bushings into the CAs, be sure to put some sort of "support wedge" between the ears of the CAs to prevent them collapsing. Something like this Sched 40 PVC collar, and be sure to cut out the slot so you can remove the collar after the bushing is in.
convinced the wife to not only helping with the bushings, but actually putting the axle in. Still need to torque everything down and reinstall the brakes as well as add diff fluid.. but my goal of getting it rolling by the time the engine goes in for assembly is just about there.
Well this is too late to help, but I always add the diff fluid before installing the rearend. It’s much easier with the rear out of the car.
yeah, I was going to then realized I didn't have any fluid. At that point, I just said screw it (really didn't want to lose my help). Dad has plenty of practice filling up a diff with fluid (2nd gen Ram problem) so I'll add rhag to the list for when he's here
Don't torque the CAs, front or rear, until you have the suspension under load.
correct. Once everything is hooked up, I'm going to lift it off the stands holding the car up, then let it down onto the stands holding the axle (that should be enough to load the suspension I'd think) and get back under and tighten things down.
Also laughing at trying to remember how the drum brakes go back together. I learned back in the 80s to do one side at a time to have a reference on how the parts went together. Now 40 years later I can see it in my sleep and don’t need the other side for reference.
Also laughing at trying to remember how the drum brakes go back together. I learned back in the 80s to do one side at a time to have a reference on how the parts went together. Now 40 years later I can see it in my sleep and don’t need the other side for reference.
so now would be a bad time to say I was born in '90, right? Haha
It was definitely easier when they were straight off/on..but these had been apart since like mid-December.. lol. I cant say much though, the Wife and my Dad are the ones that did it. Lol
First question, are the ball joints bolted in? I started looking up replacements as I have someone at work who pretty much offered himself to changing the coil springs (and if I didn't feel comfortable about how he was going to do them, I wouldn't let him. I'm already well aware of the safety concerns regarding front springs) so with that I'd might as well go ahead and do bushings/ball joints. I started looking up ball joints and noticed the uppers are bolt in? I've never heard of bolt-in ball joints...is that right? The lowers being press in is familiar to me..
***OR**
Do I just go ahead and grease the ball joints (maybe go ahead and replace boots) as the car only has 31k miles. I know at some point they'll need done obviously, but maybe at that time I won't be backed against a timeframe as I'd like to have this done by the time the engine gets back in the car..we're shooting for being on the road by Memorial Day
Thanks.
Last edited by brotherGood; March 7th, 2022 at 07:50 AM.
On my '70 442 the original uppers were installed with a rivet. Aftermarkets are generaly bolt on style. I can't make the call on your ball joints. If me, I would replace while I'm in there. Just my 2-cents.
February 11th, 2022, 10:16 AM
