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Well that doesn’t sound possible to me. The spring pocket doesn’t have that steep an angle to have 1” height difference per 1/4” horizontal offset.
I suspect you need different springs. Since you’re planning to take it all apart, swapping in different springs would be easy.
The springs match factory spec for what the car is. As far as the indexing goes, it did seem like a lot but the amount of times I'd seen it brought up and with all of the research it's about the only thing that makes sense without going to a drop/lighter spring..which considering everything is factory would kinda negate the point.
The springs match factory spec for what the car is.
How do you know this for certain?
I have installed springs and am familiar with the hardware. As said above, I would be really surprised if rotating the spring 1/4” would make a 1” difference in ride height. Be sure to let me know if I am wrong about that.
I have installed springs and am familiar with the hardware. As said above, I would be really surprised if rotating the spring 1/4” would make a 1” difference in ride height. Be sure to let me know if I am wrong about that.
I guess thats fair, I'm only going off of the supplied numbers on the springs with no way to test them. Also, if it seems I'm seems argumentative or dismissive I apologize..im just struggling to grasp how if all things are OE match, why it's not sitting correctly.
If this were the torsion bar system I'm used to, Id just crank them down a bit more and be gold. This setup is foreign to me.
Following up (sorta) to this..but I've got an internal compressor coming and hope to tackle this probably next weekend.
Correct me if I'm wrong, technically all I need to do (per side) is unhook the lower balljoint, sway bar, and the shock..right? I'm also going to double check the rears, as it seems one side is higher than the other..but then again while the DS front is about 1" higher, the PS visually is higher up than that.
Got impatient and busted out the shock compressor tonight, and contrary to multiple reviews, it doesnt fit inside the spring. After fighting with it for about an hour, I got directly under the control arm trying to gameplan (I really didn't want to unhook everything if I didn't have to) and noticed the spring isn't even seated in the top. I thought I'd read somewhere that there wasn't a specific place up top it needed to be, so I never paid attention.
So, in the morning I'm going to unhook the lower ball joint and drop the spring out and try all over. Not sure how I'm going to get it back in without the compressor since clearly the first time didn't work.
Can't be mad at anyone but myself, but hopefully now that I know what I need to pay attention to, itll go a bit smoother.
I was able to get new springs in without using a compressor, but that was with shorter Moog 5536 springs. I had the front end WAY high to allow lots of room for the control arm to lower. I put the top of the spring in place then used a lever and a hammer to get the bottom of the spring into the pocket. It wasn’t overly difficult but took a bit of observation to determine what needed to be done and how to do it.
Went out this morning and tried the chain/jack method..worked great. I wasn't too sure when I put in on the ground that it dropped the nose, but once I got it on somewhat level ground in the light, it absolutely fixed it.
Took a quick little walk-around while sitting there too..
Well, almost a year later and I was back under it yesterday.
I'd noticed every once in a while it'd have a strong pull to the right. I'd also noticed occasionally it would make some odd sounds when turning/going over bumps in the front. While I was underneath addressing the oil leak, I figured I'd give everything a once over. I noticed on the passenger's side, the castle nut on the lower ball joint looked loose. I tried to tighten it to put a new cotter pin in-thinking the old one just fell out but the ball joint just kept spinning. So, off the tire went, and after fighting for a long while to get the old nut off, I realized the cotter pin was sheared off at some point.
I cleaned the threads of the nut and the ball joint as best as I could, and retorqued the nut down and put a new cotter pin in. I *think* what happened was I grabbed a cotter pin from the Harbor Freight set, as the set that came out of the box of new ball joints just felt a lot more sturdy.
I'm going to definitely keep an eye on it, but am also planning on going ahead and changing the lower on both sides, as the ball joints that came in the control arm from RPS are larger than the factory Olds set as well as the replacement Moog ones I had in the shed. I just need to reach out and figure out what size these are and look for the replacements for them.
Super thankful that I just happened to be under there and see it. I've had a control arm snap while driving before and that wasn't fun-I can only imagine what sort of mess this would've made.
May 4th, 2023, 10:34 PM
