'63 394 starter motor
#2
Don't forget to place an ad in the Parts Wanted forum >>>>https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/parts-wanted-13/
#3
Given that these are sixty year old cars with few on the road, most vendors won't waste the warehouse shelf space. Do you really need a starter as opposed to just replacing the drive, solenoid, and brushes in yours? Those parts are readily available at RockAuto.
#6
Drove it home from work for lunch, parked it. Got back in it after lunch, hit the key and "clunk". Engine tried to turn over for a second and then dead stop. Hit the key a couple more times and it wanted to turn over, but just didn't have the torque to do so. Gave the key a couple more turns and it finally started to turn over, though slow. It was making a little bit of a noise. Not quite a grinding, not quite a rattle. Tried it a couple more times, but by the time it started to turn over fast enough to start it up I could smell gas because it was so flooded out. I didn't have time to mess with it then, just had to hop in another vehicle and get back to work.
#7
Drove it home from work for lunch, parked it. Got back in it after lunch, hit the key and "clunk". Engine tried to turn over for a second and then dead stop. Hit the key a couple more times and it wanted to turn over, but just didn't have the torque to do so. Gave the key a couple more turns and it finally started to turn over, though slow. It was making a little bit of a noise. Not quite a grinding, not quite a rattle. Tried it a couple more times, but by the time it started to turn over fast enough to start it up I could smell gas because it was so flooded out. I didn't have time to mess with it then, just had to hop in another vehicle and get back to work.
#8
Once I get back to it I'll be checking the battery, though in person it did not act or sound like a dead battery. Once it got spinning it was spinning at full speed. Before then it was like something was holding it back from rotating.
#9
(1) Measure voltage at the battery - should be >12.6V
(2) If you get it running (e.g. jump start, charged, etc.) measure voltage at the battery with car running - should be >13.9V - nominally 14.3V. This will demonstrate if the alternator is able to charge the battery
(3) Clean your negative ground cable at the negative battery terminal post and the negative ground cable at the engine block
(4) Clean your positive cable at the battery terminal post, the starter post, the starter solenoid post, and the horn relay distribution block.
(2) If you get it running (e.g. jump start, charged, etc.) measure voltage at the battery with car running - should be >13.9V - nominally 14.3V. This will demonstrate if the alternator is able to charge the battery
(3) Clean your negative ground cable at the negative battery terminal post and the negative ground cable at the engine block
(4) Clean your positive cable at the battery terminal post, the starter post, the starter solenoid post, and the horn relay distribution block.
#10
You used to be able to find them a few years ago at about $75
Delco Remy #25233 other part #s 1107665, 1107683, 1107716, 1107776, 1109578, I found one on eBay 1107776 but price is high. Get yours rebuilt should be easy to do.
This fits all Olds 394 V8 from 1959-1964
Delco Remy #25233 other part #s 1107665, 1107683, 1107716, 1107776, 1109578, I found one on eBay 1107776 but price is high. Get yours rebuilt should be easy to do.
This fits all Olds 394 V8 from 1959-1964
#11
Unfortunately a lot of things you used to be able to find a few years ago are no longer available. Vendors don't want to tie up cash keeping inventory on the shelf that is not in demand and thus won't turn over quickly. These are 60 year old cars. Few remain on the road and even fewer need a new starter at any given time.
#12
I've rebuilt a couple starters over the past 50 years. Rebuilding your starter can be an option. Don't expect it to be a one or two hour job. It most likely will take you several days to a week because it's a meticulous job; but, it can be done. The bearings are going to be packed with metal shavings, metal shavings everywhere, plunger spring gunked up, electrical contacts corroded/oxidized, old hardened grease, etc. As Joe stated, you should be able to get bushings. A thorough internal cleaning will produce amazing results if you elect to give it a go. The hardest part about rebuilding a starter is generally stabbing the armature back into the casing while holding open the brushes to accommodate the armature. It isn't an easy peasy job, as said it's meticulous, it can be done - you need patience and attention to some detail in putting the parts back into the same order you removed them.
#13
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts...er=STA-1107665
Fusick has this one in stock according to listing. I think it should function OK for your year, but might not have correct for 1963 numbering if it has any #'s at all.
Fusick has this one in stock according to listing. I think it should function OK for your year, but might not have correct for 1963 numbering if it has any #'s at all.
#14
If you're lucky enough to have a rebuilder close by, turn them loose on it. You may be able to keep the car's original starter going that route and my experience is they'll take a few more pains doing it than a high volume rebuilder.
Stellar on here is a top notch automotive electric man. He's in Pittsburgh PA area.
Stellar on here is a top notch automotive electric man. He's in Pittsburgh PA area.
#17
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts...er=STA-1107665
Fusick has this one in stock according to listing. I think it should function OK for your year, but might not have correct for 1963 numbering if it has any #'s at all.
Fusick has this one in stock according to listing. I think it should function OK for your year, but might not have correct for 1963 numbering if it has any #'s at all.
That one might be only for a 371 V8 so make sure before you get that one.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cfair
Big Blocks
15
June 14th, 2023 10:03 AM
synoptic12
General Discussion
15
May 29th, 2022 08:19 AM