Best way to replace a 455 in my 70 98
May 12th, 2010, 01:41 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 192
Best way to replace a 455 in my 70 98
All,
I am about to replace my 2nd engine. The engine in my 1970 98 is currently knocking pretty bad. I have a replacement I bought off Craigslist. It's a 69 455 with C heads. I started it up on the ground and let it run for about a minute and I didnt hear any knocking, etc so it appears to be ok.
Previously, I pulled a 390 out of my 75 F100 about 4 years ago and that was a piece of cake. But that engine DID have a manual tranny and headers that I had installed, so it was a bit easier than this one. On that once I unbolted the headers and the bellhousing it was simply a matter of me shaking the engine till it broke loose then pulling it out with a hoist. That truck had TONS of room under the hood.
But in this case I know I have to deal with the tranny. Im not sure if it's easier to pull just the engine or if it is easier to pull the engine/tranny in one piece.
Does anyone have any tips/recommendations to get this done? Just looking for things that people who have done this before can recommend. Thanks,
Paul
I am about to replace my 2nd engine. The engine in my 1970 98 is currently knocking pretty bad. I have a replacement I bought off Craigslist. It's a 69 455 with C heads. I started it up on the ground and let it run for about a minute and I didnt hear any knocking, etc so it appears to be ok.
Previously, I pulled a 390 out of my 75 F100 about 4 years ago and that was a piece of cake. But that engine DID have a manual tranny and headers that I had installed, so it was a bit easier than this one. On that once I unbolted the headers and the bellhousing it was simply a matter of me shaking the engine till it broke loose then pulling it out with a hoist. That truck had TONS of room under the hood.
But in this case I know I have to deal with the tranny. Im not sure if it's easier to pull just the engine or if it is easier to pull the engine/tranny in one piece.
Does anyone have any tips/recommendations to get this done? Just looking for things that people who have done this before can recommend. Thanks,
Paul
May 12th, 2010, 06:06 PM
#3
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,467
It's easier to leave the trans in the car. You will need to support the trans with a floor jack under the pan (using a board to spread the load) while you hoist the motor out. Be sure to remove the three converter to flexplate bolts first and to push the converter all the way back into the bellhousing.
July 10th, 2010, 06:16 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 79
I would also remove the radiator and place a piece of plywood over the a/c parts in front of the engine. Remove the fan and be careful of the crank pully.
I have done this and would also recommend leaving the trans in the car. You will have to jack up the car too high to get enough ground clearance to remove the tranny with the engine.
Of course if you have a car hoist and an overhead crane you might leave the tranny hooked up to the engine. But if you do remove the tranny with the engine you will have to readjust the shift linkage when you put it back in.
Lining the engine up with the tranny is tedious, but not hard. You will need a helper to scoot the engine into position while doing this.
I have done this and would also recommend leaving the trans in the car. You will have to jack up the car too high to get enough ground clearance to remove the tranny with the engine.
Of course if you have a car hoist and an overhead crane you might leave the tranny hooked up to the engine. But if you do remove the tranny with the engine you will have to readjust the shift linkage when you put it back in.
Lining the engine up with the tranny is tedious, but not hard. You will need a helper to scoot the engine into position while doing this.
July 10th, 2010, 06:35 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 192
All,
Thanks for the tips! My birthday cookout is tomorrow so I won't be starting on the 98 till Monday. Hopefully I can get the old engine out, and the new one in the same day (Monday) I guess I'll paint the engine red and the manifold silver before I put it in.
One thing though. I think I need a driver's side motor mount. Anyone know the correct part number or brand. We got Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, Carquest, Delcoline, and Pep Boys out here.
Thanks for the tips! My birthday cookout is tomorrow so I won't be starting on the 98 till Monday. Hopefully I can get the old engine out, and the new one in the same day (Monday) I guess I'll paint the engine red and the manifold silver before I put it in.
One thing though. I think I need a driver's side motor mount. Anyone know the correct part number or brand. We got Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, Carquest, Delcoline, and Pep Boys out here.
July 10th, 2010, 07:01 PM
#6
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,307
Go ahead and replace them both while you have the engine out of the way and plenty of working room. Just mount them to the engine first and leave the engine side bolts a little loose until you get everything lined up, then tighten. Make note of any motor mount spacers on the engine you pull out since those are the ones you'll need to line everything up in that chassis. Same thing with power steering pump and alternator bracketry spacers.
If you have CarQuest, I'd take my chances with them first unless you can get to Advance's commercial lines guy. Sometimes their regular counter monkeys don't know much (ok, anything) about older cars and it throws them into a tailspin when the stuff isn't in the computer.
If you have CarQuest, I'd take my chances with them first unless you can get to Advance's commercial lines guy. Sometimes their regular counter monkeys don't know much (ok, anything) about older cars and it throws them into a tailspin when the stuff isn't in the computer.
July 19th, 2010, 12:55 AM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 192
All,
Engines in. WOW! It's a 69 with C heads, I plan on finding some octane boost/lead additive somewhere and using that with the gas. But when I hit the pedal...NO HESITATION WHATSOEVER. Smooth revving up to the limit. This is with the same carb that I thought had Qudadrabog problems lol. This engine is strong as HELL! Not bad for 455 I bought off Craigslist for $200. Ill have pics shortly.
Only problem or the main problem we had was one of my new lifters seized in one of the bores and bent a pushrod. We just replaced it with one out of the 455 it replaced and it's running fine.
Engines in. WOW! It's a 69 with C heads, I plan on finding some octane boost/lead additive somewhere and using that with the gas. But when I hit the pedal...NO HESITATION WHATSOEVER. Smooth revving up to the limit. This is with the same carb that I thought had Qudadrabog problems lol. This engine is strong as HELL! Not bad for 455 I bought off Craigslist for $200. Ill have pics shortly.
Only problem or the main problem we had was one of my new lifters seized in one of the bores and bent a pushrod. We just replaced it with one out of the 455 it replaced and it's running fine.
July 20th, 2010, 08:10 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 192
August 3rd, 2010, 08:45 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Ok,
Drove her down to Hoodbrifge. Straight highway no traffic. She stayed right around 210 the whole time. First time I took her out I think she stayed aroud 210 too. I still need to check the timing gears as I suspect I may have installed the new timing set a tooth or two off. She runs really well though, no pinging or hesitation. I think she may be running a little rich too but that's something I can deal with later.
The reason I think the timing may be off is because I had to advance the distributor as far as I could turn it (I have an HEI) just to get the timing mark to come down to about 10 degrees. I can't turn the distributor anymore because the vacuum advance hits up against the intake
Could the distributor be installed 180 degrees off? Is there an easy way to check the gears without pulling the front cover lol
Drove her down to Hoodbrifge. Straight highway no traffic. She stayed right around 210 the whole time. First time I took her out I think she stayed aroud 210 too. I still need to check the timing gears as I suspect I may have installed the new timing set a tooth or two off. She runs really well though, no pinging or hesitation. I think she may be running a little rich too but that's something I can deal with later.
The reason I think the timing may be off is because I had to advance the distributor as far as I could turn it (I have an HEI) just to get the timing mark to come down to about 10 degrees. I can't turn the distributor anymore because the vacuum advance hits up against the intake
Could the distributor be installed 180 degrees off? Is there an easy way to check the gears without pulling the front cover lol
Last edited by jpaulwhite; August 3rd, 2010 at 08:47 PM.
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