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For nearly 20 years, I've managed to keep the signal lights working on my '66 Ninety Eight by keeping the tilt steering column in one specific position: the second from the bottom. Moving it up or down would leave the signal lights inoperable. No lights.
A few weeks ago (after I forgot to tell a shop owner to let his technician know NOT to move it) they stopped working. The lights still come on, but there's no "blinking." In addition, the left brake light only works intermittently. I've looked around for a flasher, just in case that's my problem, but I can't even find one. At least not on the fuse box.
I fear the worst: the dreaded signal light switch/connection issue in the steering column, which I've read about on other threads here.
Anybody out there able to give me any hope that it's something else? And if not, what now? I'd just gotten the hang of towing a matching vintage camper with this thing. You need working lights for that! (photo attached, for those who haven't seen the pair)
Beautiful Oldsmobile and camper. If the parts are available just go ahead and do the repair the right way the first time. Here are some well rated suppliers.
If the connection is intermittent as a function of tilt-wheel position, its likely a broken wire, not the switch. If so, this should be repairable if you can get the column apart.
I've had this happen on my 63's and on a friends 64. What I did was take the switch on the bottom of the column apart and clean it.. Carefull of the ball bearings and springs go back in the correct position, this is a slide switch with a cable that runs up the column allowing the tilt to change position and the lights stay working. I think 66 would be the same or very close to the 63/64 switch.
Nice car and matching trailer, hope you have a black and white TV with rabbit ears inside that you can take outside and watch the game around the fire pit.
Steve
I've had this happen on my 63's and on a friends 64. What I did was take the switch on the bottom of the column apart and clean it.. Carefull of the ball bearings and springs go back in the correct position, this is a slide switch with a cable that runs up the column allowing the tilt to change position and the lights stay working. I think 66 would be the same or very close to the 63/64 switch.
Nice car and matching trailer, hope you have a black and white TV with rabbit ears inside that you can take outside and watch the game around the fire pit.
Steve
Ha, good one. I'm even more old-school than that, Steve. No TV at all.
I assume getting at that switch involves pulling the steering wheel right off and dismantling the column? That sounds beyond my tool and talent range, although I've been known to venture outside my limits, with some success. It does scare me, though.
No need to remove the steering wheel or the column to access the turn signal switch on this car.
The switch is activated by a cable from the turn signal actuator.
I would check the adjustment of the switch first before anything else'
Make sure the cable moves freely.
From your description, you may have a problem with that cable binding inside the column.
If you do need a switch, I may have a used one, PM me.
Here is an illustration from the Oldsmobile Service Manual.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; October 19th, 2023 at 05:53 PM.
As Charlie has shown here with the illustration the switch is down by your feet. The switch has adjustment slots so when you loosen the screws a bit you can adjust the main body up or down to get the correct location. The rod is in a sleeve that can jam up and stick. unplug the end from the switch ( push on loc washer holding the bent round end of the rod) and work the sliding bar of the switch, if it feels like it's sticking then the switch might be "gummed up" inside. Rotate the tilt up and down and see if the rod sleeve slides freely in the steering column and check the signal arm and see if the rod in the sleeve moves freely. The sleeve is attached the the switch with a bolt clamp allowing you to adjust it on the switch, sleeve to slider bar, adjustment slots for switch to column. Hope this makes sence to you and helps.
Steve
It sounds like I need one of those shop manuals. Which specific manual covers this? I understand there are several different ones for these cars.
Paul
The info you need for the turn signals is in the 1966 Oldsmobile Chassis Shop Manual. 1966 oldsmobile chassis shop manual for sale | eBay
This was the book that dealerships used to repair the car back in the day.
Printed originals are preferred above reprints or DVD's. They are clearer.
This book covers the chassis, including engine and trans. As well as things like turn signals, wipers and A/C.
However, things like power windows and power seat will be covered in the 1966 Fisher Body Service Manual. 1966 Fisher body shop manual for sale | eBay
I would recommend buying this book also.
Even if you don't do your own repairs and take it to a shop. Take the book with you and leave it on the front seat.
Tell the mechanic that it is there for their use.
If they say they don't need it because they already know everything. Find another mechanic.
These books are also useful, if you are trying to decide whether you want to tackle the job, or farm it out to a shop.
Always go for the original paperwork, manuals, guide bulletins, the black technical bulletin binder with updates and people who have dealt with these cars are your best source of info.
Check out a couple of Oldsmobile groups on Facebook for those that know and not the stupid keyboard know-it-alls ( you can seperate them rather quickly by asking direct questions) and by asking questions here. Join the Darksiders group on here as well ( Charlie is in charge and knows his cars inside out) the rest of us know bits and pieces but together we make a good team I think.
Steve
I have ordered that chassis shop manual. Thanks, Charlie. As for that body service manual, there's no mention of Oldsmobile on it. Is it pretty generic?
The Darksiders? Just tell me how to join and I'm in. I've had this car nearly 20 years and plan to have it until I reach that vintage car rally in the sky.
Paul
Last edited by pfriesen; October 20th, 2023 at 11:25 PM.
Reason: adding info
The first snowfall hit us early, so had to get the Ninety Eight put away for the winter. Sigh.
My exploration of the signal-light issue will have to wait until the spring.
Meanwhile, I received the service and chassis manuals, only to discover I already had a chassis manual squirreled away. So I now have an extra one, if anyone's interested.
My buddy had a 63 Riviera with that style switch with tilt wheel. It was a PIA. We took the switch out and cleaned it all up with fine sandpaper and pencil erasers, carb cleaner, etc. Got it all back together and still no right brake light. Found that if you held turn signal lever absolutely in the center both brake lights would work, but after a right turn it wouldn't come back to center exactly and right tail light would be out on application of brakes. After messing and messing with adjustments, etc finally he bought a non tilt column and installed it. It has a rod that goes down to the switch and was a lot better. I think the cable that was used on the tilt had gotten stretched or whatever. All the Buick guys said that 63 was the 1st year for tilt and was quite troublesome. Good luck with it, keep us posted next spring.
Short run, if you’ve lost turn signals - try moving the lower turn signal switch column-up just a tick (1/4”- 3/8” of an inch). If the left works, and the right doesn’t, you want the lower switch closer to the upper. To do that, loosen the column hex head screws that secure the lower electrical switch to the column and let it slide back (column-up) just a bit to restore function.
If you want to go further, you’ll probably need to pull the column and fix it on the bench.
Even if you don't do your own repairs and take it to a shop. Take the book with you and leave it on the front seat.
Tell the mechanic that it is there for their use.
If they say they don't need it because they already know everything. Find another mechanic.
These books are also useful, if you are trying to decide whether you want to tackle the job, or farm it out to a shop.
This is so true about the mechanic. Most mechanics today were not even born when these cars were built. If you show them a carburetor, they will come completely unhinged, if you ask for a complete tune up including points. They think about the reward points that you get from a gas station. To mess with their head tell them to use the higher quality parts as most have never heard of other options in the tuneup department.
Short run, if you’ve lost turn signals - try moving the lower turn signal switch column-up just a tick (1/4”- 3/8” of an inch). If the left works, and the right doesn’t, you want the lower switch closer to the upper. To do that, loosen the column hex head screws that secure the lower electrical switch to the column and let it slide back (column-up) just a bit to restore function.
If you want to go further, you’ll probably need to pull the column and fix it on the bench.
Cheers
Chris
That's the thread I'd already read, Chris, the one that had me so worried. I dread having to do that. I can screw up an oil change.
I will spend the winter absolutely NOT thinking about it.
I’m far from a learned mechanic myself. I’m a complete amateur, but I’ve been at it a long time on a car d*mn near identical to yours. Excepting the more doors.
Just so you know, the _lower_ switch is maybe a 15 minute job. Loosen 2x 1/4 or probably 5/16” hex heads. Then you can move the lower switch forward or back with your hand. There aren’t even any trim pieces to remove. The idea is to adjust the lower switch so that the upper switch actuated by the stalk you know (on the left) moves the lower switch evenly and easily between right (up), neutral (middle) and left (down).
2 screws, adjust the lower switch column-up or column-down, and that’s it. Ideally.
If that doesn’t work, then you’re in for a trial. In which case we, or at least I’m, here to help.
It’s the _upper switch_ you don’t want to mess with casually.
Point is, if you can get it right by just adjusting the lower switch, this is something you can do very easily just by adjusting the slot positioning of the lower switch against the screws until you get the action you’re looking for - both signals working and without too much effort either way.
In my house I wake up before my wife & kids. This is the kind of thing I’d do over a quiet morning coffee patiently but without a lot of fear since GM slotted the lower switch prescisely to allow for wear adjustment over time.
Rank amateur to rank amateur, you have a very low chance of breaking anything rare permanently.
That is VERY encouraging. Really appreciate it. I feel better even knowing you'll be here to walk me through Plan B, if it comes to that.
We don't have snow yet -- what we did get melted -- but it is minus-10 C or so (maybe 15F), and the Olds is jammed into a non-heated, no-electrical garage with the Cutlass and our old Cadillac up at the inlaws' farm, so working on it is not viable until the spring. I wish that weren't the case, as I'm very curious to see if Plan A might work. But I'd want some more room, proper light and a comfortable temperature to tackle it.
Looking forward to it now.
On another topic, I'm going to post some restoration photos of the Olds on the Darksiders thread here shortly.
October 18th, 2023, 08:52 PM
